Colorfastness tests

Grey scale -colorfastness testing [DYES, APPLICATION AND EVALUATION] (Vol 8)... 

For every colorfastness test conducted, the color change of tested specimen was evaluated by comparing it with the remnant fabric color using the Gray Scale for Color Change. In addition, the color of the resulting specimen for each test was analyzed and assigned a Munsell color number. Results are in Table III. 

Rice s historic dyestuff recognition test results corroborated with those of A.A.T.C.C. Colorfastness tests. The absence of color transfer in acetic acid, but the ready transfer of yellow color in ammonium hydroxide indicates a yellow acid dye is present. Less yellow was transferred when the fabric first moistened with ammonium hydroxide is rewetted with acetic acid. 

Color Reaction to Historic Cleaning Procedures. Another set of colorfastness tests was adapted primarily to simulate conditions under which the dress may have been cleaned. X-ray analysis indicated the presence of potassium and the higher levels of sulfur on the dress, as compared with the unused remnant. In the earlier X-ray analysis, the Kevex-ray detected some detergent residues on the washed specimen. It is possible that the elements detected on the dress could be residues from cleaning processes used earlier in this century, which might have been used to care for this dress. 

In particular, tests regarding surface changes after applying a load and colorfastness tests after washing are of special interest. In addition, handle and drapeability are often considered. 

Change of color During colorfastness tests, the change of the color within the visible spectrum between treated and untreated sample is measured. The color change can be caused by changes in color shade as well as color purity. 

The principal methods of measuring colorfastness have been described in detail (34). Described below are the general principles for the tests as revised in 1990. Eor detailed information in English reference should be made to the 1992 AATCC manual equivalent (35). 

Fastness to Light. The ISO test for colorfastness to light is DajlightlSO 105-B01. The textile specimen is exposed to daylight under prescribed conditions, including protection from rain, along with a series of blue wool reference samples that fade at defined, prescribed, different rates. 

The test for colorfastness to artificial light Kenon arcfading lamp test ISO 10S-B02, is identical to BOl except that the sample is exposed to xenon arc light under prescribed conditions in a closed container. 

Water Tests. In colorfastness to water, ISO 10S-E01, the test specimen is placed in contact with the chosen adjacent fabrics, immersed in water, and placed wet between glass plates and left for 4 h at 37°C. After drying, the effect on the test specimen and stain on adjacents are assessed. The test, colorfastness to seawater, ISO 10S-E02, is the same as EOl but uses 30 g/L anhydrous sodium chloride solution instead of water. To test for colorfastness to chlorinated seawater/swimming baths water, ISO 10S-E03, the specimen is immersed in sodium hypochlorite solution containing either 100, 50, or 20 mg of active chlorine per Hter at pH 7.5 for 1 h at 27°C, rinsed, dried, and assessed. 

Eor colorfastness to perspiration, ISO 10S-E04, the specimen is immersed in a solution of 0.5 g/L of 1-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate and 5 g/L sodium chloride buffered to either pH 8.0 (alkaH perspiration test) or pH 5.5 (acid perspiration test) in a dish at 50 1 Hquor-to-goods ratio, at room temperature for 30 min. The specimen is removed and, as in the water test EOl, left for 4 h between plates at 37°C before drying and assessing both test piece and adjacents. 

In colorfastness to acid spotting, ISO 10S-E0S, drops of a solution of either acetic acid (300 g of glacial acetic acid per Hter of water), sulfuric acid (50 g of concentrated acid per Hter), or tartaric acid (100 g of crystalline acid per Hter) are spotted onto the test material, which is then dried and assessed. Colorfastness to alkaH spotting, ISO 10S-E06, is like E05 except that a solution of 100 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate per Hter of water is used. Colorfastness to water spotting, ISO 10S-E07, is like E05 but uses drops of water and assessment is made after 2 min wet and after drying. In colorfastness to hot water, ISO 10S-E08, the textile specimen and adjacents are wound around a glass rod and placed in water adjusted to pH 6 with acetic acid at 70°C... 

The test colorfastness to potting, ISO 10S-E09, is of importance for dyed wool as potting is one of the processes woven wool fabrics can be given before they are made up iato clothing. The procedure is similar to EOS except that the test conditions are 1 h immersion ia boiling water. 

Golorfastness to Atmospheric Contaminants. The test colorfastness to nitrogen oxides, ISO 105-G01 is to assess the fastness of the color to nitrogen oxides that may be present ia hot air that has been passed over heated filaments or from the burning of gas, coal, etc. Specimens are exposed to nitrogen oxides ia a closed container along with standards until the standards have changed to a predetermined extent. 

In fastness to peroxide bleaching, ISO 10S-N02, the specimen is immersed ia a standard bleaching solution containing hydrogen peroxide (or sodium peroxide for viscose) where the composition of the bleaching Hquor is dependent on the fibers used ia the test specimen as are the pH and time of exposure (1—2 h). The objective of the test is to assess the colorfastness usiag typical bulk bleaching conditions for the fiber under test. 

Other tests include assessing the colorfastness to solvents, felting treatments, stoving, vulcani2iag, merceri2ing, degumming, etc. 

The standard astm test method (D-1149-64) for rubber damage includes a test chamber (volume, 0.11-0.14 m ) through which ozonized air flows at a rate greater than 0.6 m/s. Because the residence time of the ozonized air in the test chamber is about 1 s, the ozone may be expected to reach the material in about 0.1 s. A somewhat similar test procedure (aatcc test method 109-1972 ansi L14, 174-1973) is used in testing colorfastness. The ozone generator is usually (but not necessarily) a mercury-vapor resonance lamp with emission lines at 184.9 and 253.7 nm. The 184.9-nm line is absorbed, and two ground-state oxygen atoms are produced ... 

American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists. Colorfastness to ozone in the atmosphere under low humidities. AATCC Test Method 109-1972, pp. ldO-141. In AATCC Technical Manual. Vol. 49. Research Triangle Park, N.C. Ametkan Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists, 1973. 

American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Test Method for Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities. L14, 174-1973. (same as AATCC Test Method 109-1972)... 

Colorfastness. A variety of test methods exist for determining the fastness, or color retention, properties of dyed fabric exposed to various conditions of weathering, laundering, or general exposure associated with the end use of the product. The AATCC Technical Manual should be consulted... 

Furthermore, a method for determining the colorfastness of pigments in binders in the presence of sulfur dioxide is also prescribed. The test is carried out simultaneously on ten identical samples and consists of three cycles. Apparatus condensation equipment. 

Dyed textiles are exposed to a variety of treatments during subsequent manufacturing steps and later in daily use. Standard test methods have been developed to evaluate the colorfastness, i.e., resistance of dyed textiles to the conditions they may endure. These test methods are maintained by the International Organisation for Standardization (ISO), Technical Committee 38, Subcommittee 1 (TC/ SCI). The Standard Test Methods are published as ISO Standard 105 [27],... 

Test colors for fastness to water. If colorfast, humidify under tension to relax creases. 

Normally, the first step in textile conservation is the examination of the piece to determine the fibers from which it was made and the technique by which it was created. One determines the spin of the yarns, whether Z or S, and the number of wefts and warps per inch. Next, one tests for colorfastness first with distilled water, then with glycerin and water, and finally with a neutral detergent and water. If the colors run with any of these solutions, obviously the piece cannot be washed, and one tests with dry-cleaning solvents and other chemicals. 

Colorfastness to Drycleaning. One fabric sample was drycleaned using perchloroethylene, following procedure specified by A.A.T.C.C. Test 132-1976. Specimen was enclosed in a 8.8-cm square cotton bag and submitted to treatment. 

Colorfastness to Perspiration. Two specimens of the dress fabric were basted to separate squares of multifiber test fabric squares, according to A.A.T.C.C. Test Method 15-1975. One was immersed in an acid solution and the other in an alkaline solution for 20 min each. After wetting, the specimens were blotted between paper toweling to absorb... 

Colorfastness to Crocking. Five specimens of the historic fabric were tested for crocking color transference when wet and five specimens were tested dry, using the Rotary Vertical Crockmeter as specified in the A.A.T.C.C. Method 116-1977. In wetted specimens, the excess moisture was blotted between paper towels. 

Colorfastness to Light. Specimens were exposed to continuous light provided by the carbon arc lamp of a Weatherometer for various periods of time, ranging from 30 min to 40 h. It was necessary to evaluate the color change at more frequent intervals than those suggested in the test method 16A-1977, because studies have indicated silks sometimes lose color within an hour of exposure (7). 

Table II. Transfer of Color from Fabric to Multifiber Test Strip in Colorfastness to Washing and Colorfastness to Perspiration Tests (Evaluated Using Gray Scale for Staining)...

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