Fragrances roses

Rose oil and rose absolute are used mainly in fine fragrances. Rose oil is also used in small amounts for flavoring purposes. 

Although natural flower absolutes are less important than in Chanel No. 5 and Arpege in establishing the essential character of the fragrance, rose, jasmin, and tuberose may be added, together with tonka, to back up the coumarin (1.5%), and a trace of natural vanilla. A trace also of ambrette seed can give a wonderful smoothness to the composition, working particularly well as part of the rose accord. 

Dietary Supplements/Health Foods. Patchouly oil, widely available in health food stores, primarily used topically as a fragrance (rose). 

Aroma chemicals are isolates, or chemically treated oils or components of oils. Some components are removed physically, others chemically. In most cases, they are further purified by distillation. For example, Bois de Rose (rosewood) oil may be distilled to isolate linalool, which may be then further treated chemically to yield derivatives such as linalyl acetate, an important fragrance ingredient and a primary component in its own right of lavender and lavandin oils. Vetiver oil Haiti, although containing only 70% alcohols, is treated with acetic anhydride, then carefully distilled to include valuable odor components in the distillate, even though they may not be esters. 

Rose. Of all the natural oils, rose is probably the most desired material used in the fine fragrance industry. For years chemists have tried to unravel the mystery of the odor-donating components of this high priced natural material. Simple glc analysis shows that nine components constitute nearly 89% of the total volatiles of rose otto (9) (see Table 2). 

Of all these, probably P-phenethyl alcohol (2) comes closest to the odor of fresh rose petals however, mixing all these components does not reproduce the total fine character of the natural oil. It has been determined that a number of trace constituents representing less than 1% of the volatiles are critical to the development of the complete rose fragrance (10). These include cis- and trans-i.ose oxide (1), nerol oxide (12), rose furan (13), /)i7n7-menth-l-en-9-al (14), P-ionone (15), P-damascone (16), and P-damascenone (3). 

Sometimes a skilled peifumei detects a sandalwood-musky note in authentic Bulgarian otto of rose. This note has been identified (11) as the trace iagredient, 7-methoxy-3,7-dimethyl-2-octanol [41890-92-0] (17), which has been commercially available for some time as Ossyrol (trademark of Bush, Boake, Aken Inc). This compound had never before been identified ia nature, but demonstrates how, sometimes, synthetic fragrance chemists can anticipate nature. 

Sandalwood Oil, East Indian. The use of sandalwood oil for its perfumery value is ancient, probably extending back some 4000 years. Oil from the powdered wood and roots of the tree Santalum album L. is produced primarily in India, under government control. Good quaUty oil is a pale yellow to yellow viscous Hquid characterized by an extremely soft, sweet—woody, almost ariimal—balsarnic odor. The extreme tenacity of the aroma makes it an ideal blender—fixative for woody-Oriental—floral fragrance bases. It also finds extensive use for the codistillation of other essential oils, such as rose, especially in India. There the so-called attars are made with sandalwood oil distilled over the flowers or by distillation of these flowers into sandalwood oil. The principal constituents of sandalwood oil are shown in Table 11 (37) and Figure 2. 

Famesol is manufactured from nerohdol by isomerization over a vanadium catalyst (55). Famesol occurs in several essential oils, such as ambrette seed, neroh, rose, cyclamen, and jasmine it is also used in floral and oriental fragrances. 

Perfumes and Cosmetics. Vanillin, a crystal, is the main constituent of the vanilla bean. Its importance can be illustrated by the fact that human preferences in fragrances and in flavors, as determined by various studies, comprise three main smells or tastes rose, vanilla, and strawberry. 

The movement of gases through the atmosphere, such as the fragrance of a rose moving from the flower to our noses, generally involves air currents as well as diffusion. Convection, the flow of gas in a current, moves molecules much more rapidly than... 

Plants produce a vast array of terpenes, alkenes built in multiples of five carbon atoms. Many terpenes have characteristic fragrances. For example, the fresh odor of a pine forest is due to pinene, a ten-carbon molecule with a ring structure and one double bond. The fragrances of terpenes make them important in the flavor and fragrance industry. Limonene, another ten-carbon molecule with a ring and two double bonds, is the principal component of lemon oil. Geraniol, a chainlike molecule with two double bonds, is one of the molecules that is responsible for the fragrance of roses and is used in many perfumes. Many other terpenes have important medicinal properties. 

Organic chemistry is the study of compounds that are based on carbon. Natural gas, rubbing alcohol, aspirin, and the compounds that give fragrance to a rose, are all organic compounds. In this chapter, you will learn how to identify and name molecules from the basic families of organic compounds. You will be introduced to the shape, structure, and properties of different types of organic compounds. 

Green fragrance of rose, lighty minty, less fresh than that of (S)- isomer... 

Very metallic fragrance, agressive, not as sweet as (S)- and (f )- citronellol, rose fragrance component is almost fully missing... 

Uses. Citronellol is one of the most widely used fragrance materials, particularly for rose notes and for floral compositions in general. As flavor material, citronellol is added for bouquetting purposes to citrus compositions. It is the starting material for numerous citronellyl esters and for hydroxydihydrocitronellol, an intermediate in the production of hydroxydihydrocitronellal. 

Geranylacetone is an intermediate in the synthesis of other fragrance substances. It is used in perfumery in rose compositions, for example, in soap perfumes. 

C12H22O2, Mr 198.30, Z PlOl.SkPa 240 °C, d 0.8901, Wp 1.4515, occurs in many essential oils either as one of its optical isomers or as the racemate. The odor of racemic citronellyl acetate differs little from that of the optical isomers. ( )-Citronellyl acetate is a liquid with a fresh-fruity rose odor. It is often used as a fragrance, for example, for rose, lavender, and geranium notes as well as for eau de cologne with citrus nuances. Since it is relatively stable to alkali, it can be used in soaps and detergents. Citrus flavors acquire speciflc character through the addition of citronellyl acetate it is also used to round off other fruit flavors. 

Properties. Phenethyl alcohol is a colorless liquid with a mild rose odor. It can be dehydrogenated catalytically to phenylacetaldehyde and oxidized to phenylacetic acid (e.g., with chromic acid). Its lower molecular mass fatty acid esters as well as some alkyl ethers, are valuable fragrance and flavor substances. 

Uses. Phenethyl alcohol is used frequently and in large amounts as a fragrance material. It is a popular component in rose type compositions, but it is also used in other blossom notes. It is stable to alkali and, therefore, ideally suited for use in soap perfumes. 

C10H9CI3O2, Mr 267.54, is a fragrance substance that does not occur in nature. It forms white crystals mp 88 °C) and has a weak, very natural, lasting rose odor. 

R = CH2CH2C6Hs, C16H16O2, Mr 240.30, Z>po.6kPa 177-178 °C, d 0.880, 1.5496-1.5504, has been identified in e.g., the flower concrete of Michelia champaca L. It is a colorless liquid or crystals mp 26.5 °C), which have a heavy, sweet, rose or hyacinth odor and a distinct honey note. The ester is used particularly in flowery fragrance compositions and as a fixative. 

Cyclic ethers used as fragrances include a number of terpenoid compounds. Some of them, such as 1,4-cineole [470-67-7] and 1,8-cineole, occur in essential oils in significant quantities. Others are only minor components examples are rose oxide, nerol oxide [1786-08-9], and rose furan [15186-51-3], which contribute to the specific fragrance of rose oil. Caryophyllene oxide [1139-30-6], which has a woody,... 

Raw materials derived from intensive agricultural cultivation are usually relatively inexpensive. However, the prices of some natural materials may exceed 1000 per kilogram because cultivation and harvesting of these plants are tedious and product yields are very low. Examples of extremely valuable ingredients of fragrance and flavor creations include rose oil, jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute, orris root oil, ambrette seed oil, angelica root oil, and orange flower oil [220]. 

In addition to the major components mentioned above, rose oil also contains a number of components which, although present in low concentrations, contribute to the characteristic fragrance [725-73 lb]. Among these are /3-damascenone (see p. 68) and rose oxide (see p. 143). 

Phenylethanol has a rose-like odour and makes the chemically produced compound the most used fragrance chemical in perfume and cosmetics, with a world market of about 7,000 t year [107, 108]. 2-Phenylethanol is also found in many foods as a characteristic flavour compound rounding off the overall aroma, especially in foods obtained by fermentation, such as wine, beer, cheese, tea leaves, cocoa, coffee, bread, cider and soy sauce [109]. In food applications, natural 2-phenylethanol is preferred rather than its nature-identical counterpart from chemical synthesis and it has a market volume of 0.5-11 year . This product is sold at market prices of up to US 1,000 per kiklogram and is mainly produced by yeast-based bioprocesses since its isolation from natural sources, e.g. rose oil, would be too costly [109]. 

Benzyl alcohol (1) occurs widely in essential oils both as the free alcohol, and, more importandy from a fragrance standpoint, in the form of various esters. Although benzyl alcohol itself is rather bland in odor, combined with its much more fragrant esters it is an important part of the odor of jasmine, ylang-ylang, gardenia, some rose varieties, narcissus and peony, as well as castoreum, balsams of peru and tolu, and propolis. Benzyl alcohol occurs primarily in flower oils and tree exudates, whereas a large number of essential oils obtained from other parts of a wide variety of plants contain no benzyl alcohol or its esters (1). 

Amongst furans are several compounds of great importance in fragrances and flavours. The rose owes some of its odour to a terpenoid furan, rosefuran, coffee some of its characteristics to furylmethanethiol and related compounds. Compounds like the 3-furanone derivative furaneol (10) are particularly interesting for their odours depend upon concentration— furaneol can seem to resemble pineapple, caramel, burnt toast etc. Furaneol is a dihydrofuran-3-one dihydrofuran-2-ones are obviously lactones and are usually dealt with as such. 

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