Fine fragrance

Rose. Of all the natural oils, rose is probably the most desired material used in the fine fragrance industry. For years chemists have tried to unravel the mystery of the odor-donating components of this high priced natural material. Simple glc analysis shows that nine components constitute nearly 89% of the total volatiles of rose otto (9) (see Table 2). 

Concretes. Concretes are produced by extraction of flowers, leaves, or roots, usually with hydrocarbon solvents. After removal of the solvent by distillation, the concrete is obtained as a thick, waxy residue. Such materials are used in some fine fragrances, but the waxes they contain can give rise to solubihty problems. Eor this reason, concretes are often dissolved in alcohol to make tinctures, or in other low odor diluents. Production of concretes, especially flower concretes, usually takes place where the botanicals are grown since the odors of such materials deteriorate rapidly after harvesting. 

In cosmetics, as in bath products, most of the problems arising with the use of vanillin are related to the soap perfumery problems. However, because the amount of perfume concentrate used in bath products is usually lower than that used in fine fragrances, the problems should be studied separately. 

Manufacture. A limited, amount of natural cinnamyl alcohol is produced by the alkaline hydrolysis of the cinnamyl cinnamate present in Styrax Oil. Thus treatment of the essential oil with alcohoHc potassium hydroxide Hberates cinnamyl alcohol of reasonable purity which is then subjected to distillation. This product is sometimes preferred in fine fragrance perfumery because it contains trace impurities that have a rounding effect in finished formulations. 

Because of the ubiquitous nature of FMs in consumer products, it is critical that any analytical chemistry laboratory measuring these compounds takes extra precautions to avoid laboratory contamination of samples. Several researchers [2,11,14-17] have pointed out that likely sources of FM contamination in the modern-day laboratory include the use of consumer products and fine fragrances by laboratory workers, fragrances in soaps used to clean glassware and the laboratory, and laboratory supplies such as gloves. 

An exception is negative elasticity, whereby the price for certain usually very expensive luxury products markedly decreases as they become more available. Examples include gem stones, scarce fine fragrance materials such as animal musks, and other luxury items. Elastic behaviour is promoted by alternative competing sources of supply of the product, the number of uses possible for the material and the utility and value of the product to the customer. 

Nonadienol is a powerful fragrance substance. It is used in fine fragrances to create refined violet odors and to impart interesting notes to other blossom compositions. In aroma compositions it is used for fresh-green cucumber notes. FCT 1982 (20) p.771. 

A product with a higher geraniol content and slightly different odor quality for use in fine fragrances is obtained by fractionating palmarosa oil after saponification of the geranyl esters. 

Dihydromyrcenol is used in fine fragrances as well as in soap and detergent perfumes for fresh lime and citrusy-floral notes. 

Vetiveryl acetate is a light yellow liquid with a dry, fresh-woody odor. It is a popular fragrance mixture that is frequently used in luxury perfumery it is also used as a fixative in many fine fragrances. 

It is used in fine fragrance compositions for, for example, toiletries and body care products. 

C13H22O2, Mr 210.32 is a mixture of isomers, bpo kPa 102 °C, ng 1.4626, a colorless to pale yellow liquid with rosy, spicy, fruity, and woody odor. For its preparation 3,6-dimethyl-6-hepten-2-one and 7-methyl-6-octen-3-one are treated with ethyl diethylphosphoryl acetate to give a mixture of octadienoic acid esters. Cyclization with sulfuric/formic acid yields the title compounds as a mixture with isomers [134]. With its complex odor picture it is used in fine fragrances for shading. 

Methyl jasmonate is used in fine fragrances where it provides rich soft effects in jasmin and muguet compositions. 

It can be synthesized by reaction of a 1 1 molar ratio of ethyl vinyl ether and phenethyl alcohol in the presence of cation exchange resin [141]. It imparts fresh, floral, green notes and is used in fine fragrances as well as in soap, cosmetics and detergents. 

R = CH3, C10H12O4, Mr 196.20, is an odor determining constituent of oakmoss absolute extract and forms colorless crystals mp 145 °C) with a mossy-earthy odor. It is used as a substitute for oakmoss extract in fine fragrances, soap, and cosmetics. 

C10H10O3, Mr 178.19, is a white powder with a fresh marine odor, mp 35-41 °C. It is used to create fresh aquatic marine notes in perfume oils for many applications, e.g., for fine fragrances, soaps, and shower gels. 

Uses. 15-Pentadecanolide is a highly valuable fragrance material that is used in fairly large amounts in fine fragrances as a fixative with a delicate musk odor. FCT 1975 (13) p.787. 

It is used in perfumery for fine fragrances, highly appreciated for its diffusion and fixative properties. 

Oxa-16-hexadecanolide as well as the stronger smelling 11-oxa (m = 9, n = 5) [3391-83-1], and 10-oxa m = %, n = 6) [1725-01-5] isomers which are obtained in the same way from the corresponding hydroxy-oxa acids, are used as long-lasting musks mainly in fine fragrances. 

It is prepared by treating ethyl cinnamate with peracetic acid [212] or by condensation of benzaldehyde with ethyl chloroacetate (in the above Darzens reaction, R = H). The glycidate is used as a long-lasting fragrance material for creating harmonic, fruity notes in household and fine fragrances. 

Other components are acyclic aliphatic esters and terpenes, such as farnesol and farnesyl acetate [237-239a]. Ambrette seed oil is one of the most expensive essential oils and, thus, is used mainly in fine fragrances and in alcoholic beverages. FCT 1975 (13) p.705 [8015-62-1], [84455-19-6]. 

Together, these compounds largely represent the odor of ambergris. Ambergris is applied as a 3% tincture in 90% ethanol, which is matured by standing over a period of time with occasional shaking. It was used in fine fragrances. FCT 1976 (14) p. 675. 

Beeswax absolute is obtained by alcohol extraction of beeswax. The yield is generally less than 1%. The yellowish-brown viscous product has a mild, honeylike odor and high tenacity it is used almost exclusively in fine fragrances. FCT 1976 (14) p.691. 

The intense, for the Siberian beaver leathery, odor of castoreum is caused largely by phenolic compounds (e.g., 4-alkylphenols and catechol derivatives [256]), which beavers take in with their food and excrete into their abdominal pouch. Castoreum was used mainly in fine fragrances for its characteristic, long-lasting odor, particularly for delicate leather nuances. FCT 1973 (11) p. 1061 [8023-83-4], [92704-04-6], [92704-05-7]. 

Civet has a distinctly different odor from musk and was formerly a versatile ingredient of fine fragrances. FCT 1974 (12) p. 863 [68991-27-5]. 

Muscone and related macrocyclic ketones are responsible for the odor of musk [260,261]. Like other animal secretions, musk was preferentially used as an alcoholic tincture in fine fragrances. FCT 1983 (21) p. 865 [68991-41-3], [90064-09-8]. 

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