Cosmetic formulation

Branched-chain acids have a wide variety of industrial uses as paint driers (7), vinyl stabilizers (8), and cosmetic products (9). Cobalt and manganese salts of 2-ethyIhexanoic acid and neodecanoic acid are used as driers for paint, varnishes, and enamels litbium, magnesium, calcium, and aluminum salts of 2-ethyIhexanoic acid are used in the formation of greases and lubricants (see Driers and metallic soaps). Derivatives of isostearic acid have been used as pour point depressants in two-cycle engine oils, as textile lubricants, and in cosmetic formulations. Further industrial appHcations can be found (10). 

Cosmetics and Toiletries. Citric acid and bicarbonate are used in effervescent type denture cleansers to provide agitation by reacting to form carbon dioxide gas. Citric acid is added to cosmetic formulations to adjust the pH, act as a buffer, and chelate metal ions preventing formulation discoloration and decomposition (213—218). 

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists, with individual memberships, was founded in the United States after World War II, based on the beHef that scientific expertise and exchange were the foundations for future expansion of the cosmetic industry. Prior to that time, knowledge of cosmetic formulation was jealously guarded. Related scientific societies emerged in other countries and have since joined to form the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists. 

These higher foaming properties are very useful for such cosmetic formulations as shampoos, showerbaths, and so on. This is the same with the forming of fine bubbles and the improving of foam stability of other surfactants such as, for example, alkyl ether sulfates due to the combination with ether carboxylates [57,67-69] (Table 9). 

Ether carboxylates improve the mildness of cosmetic formulations in this case a higher EO degree is preferred [57]. Based on the combination of the parameters foam and mildness the C12-C14 ether carboxylate with 10 mol EO is a good compromise [57,67]. 

Besides the alkyl ether carboxylates the amidether carboxylates are used as mild surfactants in cosmetic formulations [35-37,68,69,71,80]. As described by Meijer [68,69], the ether carboxylate mixture derived from the monoethanol-amide of coconut oil is a mild product in shampoos and showerbaths, and the stearylmonoethanolamidether carboxylate an oil-in-water emulsifier for creams and lotions. The NDELA content of these products is below the detection level of 10 ppb because of the use of monoethanolamine and the further chemical reactions after amidation. 

The reaction product with monoethanolamine acts as a thickening agent [41,101] and with alcohols as an emollient [40]. Also reaction products with amino acids and oligo- or polypeptides for use in cosmetic formulations are known [43]. Sorbitan esters from ether carboxylates are described as emulsifiers or mild surfactants in cosmetic formulations [39] and alkyl ether carboxylic acid taurides as nonirritant anionic surfactants for cosmetic cleaners in particular [44]. Using unsaturated ether carboxylates it is possible to make viscous formulations based on combinations of unsaturated and saturated ether carboxylates [111]. Highly purified alkyl ether carboxylates based on alcohol ethoxylates with low free alcohol content have also been described [112]. 

Besides the usual alkyl ether carboxylates and amidether carboxylates some special types have been developed for use in cosmetic formulations. These are based on fatty alcohol propyl ether diols [113] and fatty alcohol diols [26]. 

Besides improvement of the dermatological properties of cosmetic formulations, the mildness of household detergents such as dishwashing liquids may also be increased [72,144]. Several authors [51,57,61,64,68,72,144,215] mention, in addition to the good dermatological properties, a good biodegradability and nontoxicity. 

Cosmetics certainly improve female attractiveness and this belief has led the cosmetic industry to be one of the most successful worldwide. The cosmetic industry in Malaysia is proven to be one of the most important economy source [l].In the last quarter of twentieth century, cosmetic industries exist with technology of their own. Every year, users were introduced with various new cosmetics products of the latest trend. The ingredients and basic material used in cosmetic formulations become the important criteria for consumeia in choosing the cosmetic product, as their interest in health and safety issues grew. Natural-ingredient based product getting popular [2-3]. 

Cosmetic applications, lactic acid in, 14 125 Cosmetic emulsions, 10 129 Cosmetic formulations, interaction with skin, 24 158... 

This catalytic system was very flexible because by simple modification of the reaction conditions it was possible to prepare oxidized polymers with the desired level of carboxyl and carbonyl functions. No waste was formed because the process did not involve any acids, bases or buffer solutions. The incipient wetness process is very easy to scale up. Hydrophilic starch was prepared in batches of 150 L and incorporated successfully in paint formulations. Good results were also obtained with in vitro and in vivo tests for cosmetic formulation. Interestingly, this is a rather unique example of a heterogeneous catalytic process involving a soluble catalyst and a solid substrate. 

Techniques in isolation and structure elucidation of (volatile) semiochemicals from beetles are the same as in other insects. Problems are mainly due to the often very small amounts of target compounds, embedded in large amounts of non-active substances which form a kind of cosmetic formulation for the biologically active principle. Comprehensive reviews of analytical approaches have been published [18-20]. 

There were no positive reactions to 5% DBP among 53 subjects given a 48-hour closed-patch test. Cosmetic formulations containing up to 9% DBP ranged from nonirritating to slightly irritating in various patch test procedures. Sensitization and photosensitization did not occur. ... 

Uses. Reacts with long-chain fatty acids to form ethanolamine soaps, which are used extensively as emulsifiers, thickeners, wetting agents, and detergents in cosmetic formulations also used as a dispersing agent in agricultural chemicals as a chemical intermediate as a corrosion inhibitor... 

Uses. Chemical intermediate used to adjust the pH of cosmetic formulations... 

Uses. Photographic reducer and developer antioxidant stabilizing agent for some polymers intermediate in the manufacturing of some dyes and pigments in cosmetic formulations... 

Uses. Manufacture of emulsifiers and dispersing agents in cosmetic formulations in household and commercial cleaners and detergents... 

Studies carried out with complete cells in vivo, cell membranes and other cell fractions point to the selective oxidation of phosphatidylserine (26) to a hydroperoxide (PS-OOH) on oxidative stress caused by toxic agents such as H2O2, t-BuOOH and cumyl hydroperoxide (27). Formation of PS-OOH is observed during apoptosis. These phenomena are important because of the cytotoxic effects of various peroxides used in commercial products coming into direct contact with the human body, as is the case of epidermal keratinocytes in contact with cosmetic formulations" ". The toxic effects of f-BuOOH are associated with vasoconstriction and damage to the vascular smooth muscles ". Global determination methods for primary lipid oxidation products are discussed in Section IV.B. 

Diethanolamine is a viscous liquid widely used as a chemical intermediate and as a corrosion inhibitor and surface-active agent in various products including metalworking fluids, oils, fuels, paints, inks, cosmetic formulations and agricultural products. Occupational exposure may occur by inhalation and dermal contact, particularly in metal-machining occupations. No data were available on environmental exposure to... 

In a study of oif-the-shelf cosmetic formulations carried out by the United States Food and Dmg Administration from 1978 to 1980, 7V-nitrosodiethanolamine was detected in 110 of 252 products containing triethanolamine and in 25 of 64 products not containing triethanolamine (however, the products without triethanolamine may have contained diethanolamine or monoethanolamine) (Beyer et al., 1983). Levels of iV-nitrosodiethanolamine as high as 130 ppm have been reported (Edwards etal, 1979). 

A-Nitrosodiethanolamine at levels of 600-7386 ppb was detected in 11 samples of cosmetics in the United States which included hand creams, face creams, shampoos, cocoa butter cream, moisturizing lotion and a make-up remover (all products listed diethanolamine and/or triethanolamine as ingredients) (Tunick etal., 1982). TV-Nitroso-diethanolamine was found in all seven cosmetic formulations one with traces (< 10 ng/g) and six at levels of 41 7 000 ng/g and in 12 of 13 lotions (seven with traces <10 ng/g and five with 14-140 ng/g) and in eight of nine hair shampoos (three with traces < 10 ng/g and live with 17-280 ng/g) in the United States (Fan et al., 1977b). Of 191 cosmetics analysed, 77 contained from 10 to more than 2000 ppb N-nitrosodiethanolamine (Elder, 1980). Westin etal. (1990) analysed 20 different suntan lotions in Israel and found that three were contaminated with 17-27 ppb TV-nitroso-diethanolamine (with traces 5-10 ppb). 

A neutral diblock copolymer consisting of poly[(butyl acrylate)-b-(2-di mcthyl-aminoethyl acrylate)] was prepared by Bavouzet et al. (4) and used in cosmetic formulations. 

Isopropanol is manufactured in the United States by the indirect hydration of propylene in processes which may involve the use of concentrated or dilute sulfuric acid, whereas, in European countries and Japan, a direct hydration process is used in which propylene reacts with water in the presence of a catalyst. It is used mainly for the production of acetone, but also as a solvent and in the manufacture of other chemicals and in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations (lARC, 1977). 

Imidazolinium derivatives are recommended as detergents, emulsifiers, wetting and hair conditioning agents, foaming agents, fabric softeners, and antistatic agents. There is some evidence dial in cosmetic formulations certain imidazolinium derivatives reduce eye irritation caused by sulfate and sulfonate surfactants present in these products. 

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