Shampoos product forms

While the Dove formulation has undergone relatively minor changes since its launch in the U.S. in 1955, the marketing concept has seen major changes. Today s Dove is marketed on a platform of extreme mildness to skin as evidenced by its neutral pH, and has been extended into different skin cleansing product forms (e.g. Dove Body Wash) as well as other personal care products (e g. Dove Shampoo, Dove Deodorant) [3], However, the original problem definition had a very different focus. 

In this chapter the effects of these and other factors on product form and development are discussed. The first section describes general shampoo and hair conditioner compositions. Subsequent sections then discuss hair-cleaning mechanisms and product performance and efficacy, followed by methods of evaluating the cosmetic attributers of shampoos and conditioners. Finally, a brief discussion of damage to hair from shampooing and grooming is presented. 

Gel Shampoos. These shampoos are generally versions of the clear product but consist of higher concentrations of the cleansing and thickening agents. They are usually packaged in tube form for dispensing purposes. 

Aerosol Shampoos. These shampoos constitute a very small percentage of the market. They have been available in two versions, ie, Hquid foam types and dry spray forms. The Hquid foam type, despite its convenience and appealing appearance, did not attain high general use. Factors involved in its low acceptabiHty include not only higher product cost but also serious stabiHty issues with can corrosion. 

Thickeners. These are used to kicrease viscosity of shampoos to achieve certain consistency characteristics ki the product, from a thickened Hquid to gels and pastes. Among the most important materials used for this purpose are the alkanolamides. The chain length of the amide alkyl group and its solubiHty ki the shampoo system are important aspects to be considered ki thek use for effects on viscosity. In general, as the chain length increases the viscosity response improves. The viscosity increase also is related to the water solubiHty of the amide the more water-soluble forms provide a lower viscosity response than the less soluble amides. 

Cosmetics and Personal Care Products. Alkanolamines ate important taw materials in the manufacture of creams (95—97), lotions, shampoos, soaps, and cosmetics. Soaps (98) formed from triethanolamine and fatty acids ate mild, with low alkalinity and excellent detergency. Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate is a common base for shampoos (99—101) and offers significant mildness over sodiumlauryl sulfate. Diethanolamine lauryl sulfate and fatty acid soaps of mono- and trietban olamine can also be used in shampoos and bubble bath formulations. Chemistry similar to that used in soluble oils and other emulsifiers is appUcable to cleansing creams and lotions (102,103). Alkanolamides or salts ate added to the shampoo base to give a smooth, dense foam (104). 

International Specialty Products (ISP) suppHes ethyl, isopropyl, and -butyl half-esters of PMVEMA as 50% solutions in ethanol or 2-propanol. Typical properties are shown in Table 8. These half-esters do not dissolve in water but are soluble in dilute aqueous alkaU and in aqueous alcohoHc amine solutions. The main appHcation for the half-esters is in hairsprays where they combine excellent hair-holding properties at high humidity without making the hair stiff or harsh. These half-esters are easily removed during shampooing, have a very low order of toxicity, and form tack-free films that exhibit good gloss, luster, and sheen (see Hair preparations). 

The dried capitula of Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), or German chamomile, have been used as anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic remedies since very early times on account of its contents in bisabolol oxides the activity of which has been experimentally substantiated. The plant is listed in several European pharmacopeias, and is used in the form of tinctures, extracts, lotions, ointments, shampoos, and sunscreen products. 

Chemical-based products cover a broad spectrum of materials and forms, ranging from molecules to appliances. Table 16.1-1 shows the various product functional forms, along with examples in major application areas. Examples highlighted in italic are those discussed in this book. Most small molecules such as BTX (benzene-toluene-xyxlene) are sold to chemical and allied products industries while a limited number such as refrigerants and solvents are for sale in the consumer market. In contrast, multicomponent liquid mixtures such as liquid shampoo, semi-solids such as cream and paste, and structured solids such as controlled release herbicide are often sold directly to the consumers. Business-to-consumer sale is even more prevalent for ready-to-use devices and appliances such as diagnostic kits, drinking water filters and air cleaners. 

Surfactants are widely used industrially and perform a variety of functions. As processing aids they help to disperse fillers and other ingredients and to form and stabilize emulsions. They are key components in shampoos, detergents, polishes and cleaning products. In other... 

Opacifiers. Opaque shampoos are produced by incorporating high melting, wax-like, dispersible materials into their preparation. Some of these materials crystallize in such a fashion that they effect a pearlescence in the product. Opacifying agents found in shampoos include the glycol mono- and diesters, higher fatty alcohols such as cetyl and stearyl forms, stearate soaps, and latex copolymer emulsions. 

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