Hair care formulation

Another important type of cosmetic formulation is that used for hair dyeing, i.e. changing the natural colour of the hair. This will also be briefly discussed in this section. 

Hair is complex multicomponent fibre with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. It consists of 65-95% by weight of protein and up to 32% water, lipids, pigments and trace elements. The proteins are made of structured hard a-keratin embedded in an amorphous, proteinaceous matrix. Human hair is a modified epidermal structure, originating from small sacs called follicles that are located at the 

The surface of hair has both acidic and basic groups (i.e. amphoteric in nature). For unaltered human hair, the maximum add combining capacity is approximately 0.75 mmol per g hydrochloric, phosphoric or ethyl sulphuric acid. This corresponds to the number of dibasic amino acid residues, i.e. arginine, lysine or histidine. The maximum alkali combining capacity for unaltered hair is 0.44 mmol per g of potassium hydroxide, which corresponds to the number of acidic residues, i.e. aspartic and glutamic side-chains. The isoelectric point (i.e.p.) of hair keratin (i.e. the pH at which there is an equal number of positive, -NH+ and negative, -COO groups) is pH 6.0. However, for unaltered hair, the i.e.p. is at pH 3.67. 

Both surface and internal lipids exist in hair. The surface lipids are easily removed by shampooing with a formulation based on an anionic surfactant. Two successive steps are sufficient to remove the surface lipids. However, the internal lipids are difficult to remove by shampooing due to the slow penetration of surfactants. 

Analysis of hair lipid reveals that they are very complex, consisting of saturated and unsaturated, straight and branched fatty acids with chain lengths of from 5 to 22 carbon atoms. The difference in composition of lipids between persons with dry and oily hair is only qualitative. Fine straight hair is more prone to oiliness than curly coarse hair. 

From the above discussion, it is clear that hair treatment requires formulations for cleansing and conditioning of hair and this is mostly achieved by using shampoos. The latter are now widely used by most people cuid various commercial products are available with different claimed attributes. The primeuy function of a sheimpoo is to clean both hair and scalp of soils and dirt. Modern shampoos fiilfill other purposes, such as conditioning, dandruff control and sun protection. The main requirements for a hair shampoo are (i) Safe ingredients (low toxicity, low sensitization euid low eye irritation), (ii) Low substantivity of the surfactants, (iff) Absence of ingredients that can damage the hair. 

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Mild and safe raw materials are of paramount importance for skin and hair care formulations. The search for improved mildness has led to the development of sulfosuccinates of various qualities. 

Vitamin B5 or pantothenic acid is a water soluble vitamin, which is mainly produced by chemical routes. Pantothenic acid is required for normal skin function as it leads to formation of coenzyme Q and is involved in carbohydrate, protein, and lipid metabolism. Dex-panthenol, an alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid is more stable and has good skin penetration than pantothenic acid. Dexpanthenol is mainly used for topical application on skin and serves as good moisturizer and thus improves the cosmetic appearance of skin. It has mild skin inflammatory activity, but is well tolerated by skin. Pantothenic acid improves wound healing, epidermal regeneration, and reduces scarring also. So, pantothenic acid itself can be used in various skin care formulations. Pantothenic acid is used in hair care formulation as it hydrates the hair and protects the hair fiom chemicals and UV rays. ... 

Table 14 Benefits Derived from Silicones in Hair Care Formulations... 

Proteins are claimed and proved to increase the tensile strength of hair, increase elasticity, impart body and softness, help repair split ends and cuticle damage, and protect from the adverse effect of detersion, chemical waving, and bleaching. Different protein derivatives are selected for specific hair treatments and products. Commonly used dose ranges in different hair care formulations are listed in Table 6. 

Common dose ranges of protein derivatives in different hair care formulations are listed in Table 8. 

Chemical Descriptions A nanoparticulate suspension that imparts a natural color to formulae, hair, and skin. Melanin is compo.sed of four major monomeric units uncyclized units indoles indolines and pyrroles, It has an empirical formula of C74.7S H45.62N Oi ..,. Both the fractional nature and range of the empirical fonnula reflect the fact that melanin is a polymer composed of various percentages of more than one type of monomeric unit Trade Names Melanlnk, SepiaMelanInk, All Natural Melanin Function in Formula Free-radical neutralization, adjuvant for boosting SPF Use Concentration 0.1-10% in skin care formulations 0.1-10% in hair care formulations... 

Sarcosinate surfactants have been widely used in personal wash, skin care, and hair care formulations as coactives. They are particularly useful in providing a rich, stable lather, especially in the presence of sebum. Lathers produced from other anionic and amphoteric surfactants are remarkably enhanced by the addition of sarcosinates. Maximum foaming and detergency are developed in the pH range 4-8. The adsorption of sarcosinates onto the hair results in manageability and reduced static buildup. Sarcosinate surfactants are easily... 

Atsuko and his co-workers [51-56] patented antimicrobial and low-irritant cosmetic compositions containing A-long-chain acyl basic amino acid derivatives, plant extracts, and other ingredients. They can be widely used as a skin cosmetic, a makeup cosmetic, or a hair care formulation. 

Triethanolamine based esterquats are a mixture of mono- di- and tries-terquats. It is claimed that for softeners and hair conditioners an esterquat with at least 50% diester content is preferred [49]. Methyldiethanolamine-based esterquats are mainly diesterquats with only slight amounts of mono-esterquat. Monoesterquats are useful as cationic surfactants in hair care formulations [124]. Solid esterquats with improved dispersibility and emulsifying properties are obtained by quaternization of fatty acid triethanolamine esters in the presence of a dispersing agent or nonionic emulsifier [125-127]. Esterquats can be used in sprayable conditioning systems for hair care [128]. 

A new type of ester amide as an alternative to diesterquats has gained attention in the personal care area in recent years. These ester amidoamines are prepared from diethanolamines and 2 mol of fatty acid. The hydroxyl group forms an ester function and the primary amine forms an amide bond. The resulting ester amidoamines are then quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or methyl chloride. These ester amidoamine dialkylquats are typically used as fabric softeners or in hair care formulations where they showed good hair softening and smoothing elfect [150] (Fig. 18). 

The use of proteins as raw material for personal and home care products has been known for more than 60 years [58]. Both animal (e.g. leather waste) and plant-based proteins are available as raw materials. Nowadays mostly plant-based proteins (e.g. from wheat, soya bean, rice, peas) are used. Typically the natural proteins are degraded by hydrolysis (either chemically or enzymatically) and the respective protein hydrolysates are obtained. After purification and work-up they are used for skin and hair care formulations. The main claims are protection and care for hair and skin. Subsequent quarternization of the protein hydrolysates leads to products with high substantivity and conditioning effects, whereas acylation of the protein hydrolysates with fatty acids results in protein surfactants, the so-called protein fatty acid condensates. In the latter case, as already described for the sugar-based surfactants, the products are based completely on natural raw materials, namely fatty acids (from vegetable oil) and the protein or protein hydrolysate as the hydrophilic part in the surfactant molecule (Figure 4.6). The... 

Uses Emulsifier, softener, antistat, conditioner, gloss aid, bodying agent hair care formulations... 

Uses Emulsifier, lubricant, slip aid, surfactant, antitackifler, emulsion stabilizer, emollient, spreading agent for hair and skin prods, including creams, body lotions, after-shave balms and gels, shampoos, and conditioners Features Nongreasy compat. with many anionic surfactants and quaternary compounds normally used in hair care formulations Properties Gardner 2 cl. yel. liq. mild odor sol. in ethanol disp. in water, propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate and min. oil acid no. 11 100% act. 

Uses Emulsifier and dispersant for petroleum oils coemulsifler and retardant in hair care formulations detbamer... 

Fluorinated surfactant oligomers have been patented [62] as hair-conditioning agents. Fluoroalkyl (meth)acrylate polymers [63] also are useful in hair care formulations. 

C 3 and C 6 dialkyIdimethylammo-nium chloride, C13 dialkylmethyl-jV-poly(ethoxy)ammonium chloride, C s alkyldimethylbenzyl-ammonium chloride, single peaks determination in alkaline hair care formulations Metachem Spherisorb SCX cation exchanger, 4.6 x 150 mm MeOH containing 0.06 M ammonium formate Evaporative light scattering 303... 

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