Perfumes lavender

L v ndin. Lavandin, Lavandula hjbrida as a plant species is of recent origin, unknown until the late 1920s. It is a hybrid of two common lavenders, l vandula officinalis and l vandula latifolia. Lavandin is cultivated mainly ia southern France and has become one of the most produced and used natural perfumery materials. The flowering tops of the shmb are used to produce a concrete, an absolute, and a steam-distilled oil the last is by far the most used. Low cost and refreshing odor quaUty allow lavandin to be employed ia a wide variety of perfume appHcations and at high concentrations. Chemically it is comprised of 30—32% linalool (3) and linalyl acetate (1), along with numerous other substances, mosdy terpenic. 

Linalol is a tertiary alcohol of the formula Cj HjgO, which, with its acetic ester (and traces of other esters) forms the basis of the perfume,of bergamot and lavender oils. By dehydration linalol is converted into terpenes of which the principal are limonene and dipentene, and by esterification into its acetic ester. The examination of the essential oil at different periods of the development of the bergamot fruit has led Charabot and Laloue to the following conclusions. As the fruit matures the essential oil undergoes the following modifications —... 

Some oils consist almost entirely of esters for example, those of Oaultheria procumhens and Betula lenta contain about 99 per cent, of methyl salicylate. Bergamot and lavender owe the greater part of their perfume value to esters of linalol, of which the acetate predominates. Geranium oil owes its fragrance chiefly to geranyl esters, of which the tiglate is the chief. On the other hand, oils such as spike lavender, sandalwood, lemon-grass, and citronella contain but small quantities of esters, and owe their perfume value to entirely different types of compounds. 

The esters belonging to the geraniol series of alcohols are absolutely indispensable in the manufacture of artificial perfumes. When it is remembered that these esters are present in such oils as bergamot, rose, geranium, lavender, petit-grain, neroli, and numerous other sweetsmelling essential oils, it will readily be seen how useful they are in building up similar perfumes artificially. 

The Detection of Artificial Esters in Essential Oils.—The custom of valuing certain essential oils, such as lavender, bergamot, geranium, petit-grain, etc., by the determination of their ester-content, has led to the use of scientific adulterants in the form of artificial esters which have been deliberately employed for the purpose of misleading the analyst. Of course, the ester determination is not a true criterion of value, as most of this class of oUs owe their perfume value to various other bodies as well. The first compounds of this nature employed for adulteration were ethyl succinate and ethyl oxalate. For the detection of these in lavender oil the foUowing test was proposed by Guildemeister and Hoffman —... 

The ester is prepared by esterification of 2-phenoxyethanol with isobutyric acid and is used as a fixative in perfumes (rose and lavender types) as well as for fruity notes. 

Coumarin is a natural product occurring in the essential oils of a large number of plants, such as cinnamon, cassia, lavender and woodruff. It is used for its fragrance in many personal care products (perfumes, deodorants, soaps) and in tobacco, in household and industrial products to mask unpleasant odours and, in some countries, as a flavouring agent in food and beverages. It has also been used to treat several medical conditions. Exposure to coumarin may occur from its production, its natural presence in many plants and essential oils, and its several industrial, medical and consumer uses. 

Pm cine Soap.—Curd soap, fifty pounds cocoa nut oil soap,t ie same quantity, molted to paste and crutched with ten to twenty pounds of finely bolted pumice-stone powder. The perfume is a mixture of attars of thyme, Cassia, caraway, and lavender, each one pound. 

This treatise of Porta s, which is very different in plan and content from the book on distillation in his earlier work, is divided into nine books, dealing successively with the kinds of distillation, the methods and apparatus for distillation in general, furnaces, retorts, condensers, etc. with the preparation of distilled perfumed waters, from roses, violets, myrtle, lavender, jasmine, lilies, etc. with... 

Limonene [138-86-3] - [ANALYTICALMETHODS - TRENDS] (Vol 2) -aroma chemical [PERFUMES] (Vol 18) -in Bergamot oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in caraway oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in asms oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in citronella oils [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in eucalyptus oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in expectorants [EXPECTORANTS, ANTITUSSIVES AND RELATED AGENTS] (Vol 9) -m jumperberry oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lavender [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lavender [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lime oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in neroli oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -m oilbanum [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in orange oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in sweet basil oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17)... 

The use of terpenoids, usually as mixtures prepared from plants, dates from antiquity. The several essential oils produced by distillation of plant parts contained the plant essences. These oils have been employed in die preparation of perfumes, flavorings, and medidnals. Examples are oils of clove (local anesthetic in toothache), lemon (flavoring), lavender (perfume), and juniper (diuretic). Usually essential oil production depends on a simple technology which often involves steam distillation of plant material The perfume industry of Soudiem France uses somewhat more sophisticated procedures in the isolation of natural flower oils since these oils are heat sensitive. The separation of oils from citrus fruit residues m California and Florida is done by machine. 

Prior to the development of the chemical industry in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, only substances from natural sources were available for treating our diseases, dying our clothes, cleansing and perfuming our bodies, and so forth. Extracts of the opium poppy, for instance, have been used since the seventeenth century for the relief of pain. The prized purple dye called Tyrian purple, obtained from a Middle Eastern mollusk, has been known since antiquity. Oils distilled from bergamot, sweet bay, rose, and lavender, have been employed for centuries in making perfume. 

Complicated mixtures may sometimes take on an identity which is no more difficult to recognize than a single chemical. Perfumes such as Anais Anais or Giorgio are as instantly recognizable as phenylethyl alcohol or anisaldehyde. Similarly lavender oil or geranium have a unique and memorable identity. Indeed, in our experience, students often can more easily identify these complicated mixtures than single chemical materials. Just why some perfumes have such strong identity is not fully understood, but, as will be discussed later, much of the skill of the perfumer lies in the ability to achieve such an identity in a composition. 

Otherwise, in general construction the perfume follows closely that of a classical oriental, with citrus oils (making up some 25%), lavender, sandalwood, patchouli, vanillin, coumarin, castoreum, and rose. The general sweetness of the perfume is further enhanced by the choice of musk materials, Galaxolide (5%), Tonalid, ethylene brassylate, and musk ketone, as well as by the use of Cashmeran, an intensely sweet fruity musk material associated with the synthesis of Galaxolide. 

Note A classification of aromatic components of essential oils and perfumes. Top notes are sharp, penetrating and highly volatile (e.g. citrus oils, peppermint). Middle note characteristics are used to give body to blends (e.g. geranium, lavender). Base notes are the least volatile and used as fixatives to give more permanence (e.g. sandalwood, vetivert). 

While perfumes may be simple or complex, they all consist of three principle ingredients the main scent, secondary or blender scents, and a fixative. The main scent is usually potent, and is balanced by the secondary scents added to it. The fixative is a compound that holds the whole thing together. Some fixatives work best for certain scents. The example, the best fixative for lavender scent is orris root. 

Salts, smelling Ammonia-based preparations used as a restorative in hysterical syncope (fainting). Dry smelling salts (or vinaigrettes) are composed of ammonium chloride and potassium carbonate, perfumed with lavender liquid smelling salts are composed of ammonium carbonate dissolved in stronger ammonia water and alcohol, and perfumed with oils solidified smelling salts are similar preparations solidified with stearic acid. ... 

Perfume materials obtained in this way are referred to as essential oils. Thus, for example, the oil obtained by steam distillation of lavender is known as the essential oil of lavender, or lavender oil. Sometimes, the monoterpene hydrocarbons are removed from the oils by distillation or solvent extraction to give a finer odour in the product. The process is known as deterpenation and the product is referred to as a terpeneless oil. This is, of course, a misnomer since, for example, the major component of lavender oil terpeneless is linalyl acetate, a monoterpene. 

C14H24O2, Mr 224.34, bpm3 kpa 232 °C, d15 0.8977, ng 1.4523, is a liquid with a fruity bergamot note and a subdued animalic tone. It is used in lavender perfumes and in many blossom compositions. 

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