Keratinization

Scieroproteins. Insoluble proteins obtained from the skeletal and connective tissues of animals. Typical classes are keratins collagens and elastin classes. 

Keratin is the protein of hair and wool. These proteins are insoluble because of the disulfide cross-linking between cystine units. Permanent waving of... 

The sulfur amino acid content of soy protein can be enhanced by preparing plasteins from soy protein hydrolysate and sources of methionine or cystine, such as ovalbumin hydrolysate (plastein AB), wool keratin hydrolysate (plastein AC), or L-methionine ethyl ester [3082-77-7] (alkaU saponified plastein) (153). Typical PER values for a 1 2 mixture of plastein AC and soybean, and a 1 3 mixture of alkah-saponified plastein and soybean protein, were 2.86 and 3.38, respectively, as compared with 1.28 for the soy protein hydrolysate and 2.40 for casein. 

Tables 1 and 2 Hst the important physical properties of formamide. Form amide is more highly hydrogen bonded than water at temperatures below 80°C but the degree of molecular association decreases rapidly with increa sing temperature. Because of its high dielectric constant, formamide is an excellent ionizing solvent for many inorganic salts and also for peptides, proteias (eg, keratin), polysaccharides (eg, cellulose [9004-34-6] starch [9005-25-8]) and resias.

It has been shown that keratin [9008-18-8] and not ceUulose-type fibers, are dyed. It is speculated that a lead—sulfur—keratin complex is formed. The color penetrates the hair fiber to a limited extent, forming a ring around the outside edge and imparting a lifeless appearance. Once developed, the color cannot be removed. The shades are limited yeUows or light browns. Appealing mainly to men, the products are often called color restorers because of the... 

Chemical Composition. From the point of view of leathermaking, hides consist of four broad classes of proteins coUagen, elastin, albumen, and keratin (3). The fats are triglycerides and mixed esters. The hides as received in a taimery contain water and a curing agent. Salt-cured cattie hides contain 40—50% water and 10—20% ordinary salt, NaCl. Surface dirt is usuaUy about 2—5 wt %. Cattie hides have 5—15% fats depending on the breed and source. The balance of the hide is protein (1). 

Amino acid CoUagen Elastin Keratin Albumin... 

Albumen has the largest number of acid and basic groups. It is the most soluble of the proteins present in a hide. The albumen is not a fibrous material, however, and therefore has no value in the leather. Keratin is the protein of the hair and the outermost surface of the hide. Unless the hair is desired for the final product it is removed by chemical and/or physical means. The elastin has Htde acid- or base-binding capacity and is the least soluble of the proteins present. The lack of reactivity of the elastin is a detriment for most leather manufacture. The presence of elastin in the leather greatly limits the softness of the leather. 

The differences in the amino acid chemistry of the hide coUagen and the hair keratin are the basis of the lime-sulfide unhairing system. Hair contains the amino acid cystine. This sulfur-containing amino acid cross-links the polypeptide chains of mature hair proteins. In modem production of bovine leathers the quantity of sulfide, as Na2S or NaSH, is normally 2—4% based on the weight of the hides. The lime is essentially an unhmited supply of alkah buffered to pH 12—12.5. The sulfide breaks the polypeptide S—S cross-links by reduction. Unhairing without sulfide may take several days or weeks. The keratin can be easily hydrolyzed once there is a breakdown in the hair fiber stmcture and the hair can be removed mechanically. The coUagen hydrolysis is not affected by the presence of the sulfides (1—4,7). 

Production by Isolation. Natural cysteine and cystine have been manufactured by hydrolysis and isolation from keratin protein, eg, hair and feathers. Today the principal manufacturing of cysteine depends on enzymatic production that was developed in the 1970s (213). 

Proteins can be broadly classified into fibrous and globular. Many fibrous proteins serve a stmctural role (11). CC-Keratin has been described. Fibroin, the primary protein in silk, has -sheets packed one on top of another. CoUagen, found in connective tissue, has a triple-hehcal stmcture. Other fibrous proteins have a motile function. Skeletal muscle fibers are made up of thick filaments consisting of the protein myosin, and thin filaments consisting of actin, troponin, and tropomyosin. Muscle contraction is achieved when these filaments sHde past each other. Microtubules and flagellin are proteins responsible for the motion of ciUa and bacterial dageUa. 

On a vitamin A-deficient diet, mucus-secreting tissues become keratinized. This condition tends to occur in the trachea, the skin, the saUvary glands, the cornea, and the testes. When this occurs in the cornea, it can be followed by blindness. Vitamin A deficiency is the principal cause of blindness in the very young. This problem is particularly acute in the third world (8). 

Wool belongs to a family of proteins, the keratins, that also includes hair and other types of animal protective tissues such as horn, nails, feathers, and the outer skin layers. The relative importance of wool as a textile fiber has declined over the decades as synthetic fibers have increa singly been used in textile consumption. Wool is still an important fiber in the middle and upper price ranges of the textile market. It is also an extremely important export for several nations, notably AustraUa, New Zealand, South Africa, and Argentina and commands a price premium over most other fibers because of its outstanding natural properties of soft handle (the feel of the fabric), moisture absorption abiUties (and hence comfort), and superior drape (the way the fabric hangs) (see Fibers Textiles). Table 2 shows wool production and sheep numbers in the world s principal wool-producing countries. 

Wool belongs to the family of proteins (qv) called keratins. However, morphologically the fiber is a composite and each of the components differs in chemical composition. Principally the components are proteinaceous, although wool cleaned of wax, suint, and other extraneous materials acquired during growth contains small amounts of Hpids (stmctural and free), trace elements, and, in colored fibers, pigments called melanin. 

Wool, as a keratin, is a highly cross-linked, insoluble proteinaceous fiber, and few animals have developed the specialized digestive systems that aUow them to derive nutrition from the potential protein resource. In nature, these few keratin-digesting animals, principally the larvae of clothes moths and carpet beetles, perform a useful function in scavenging the keratinous parts of dead animals and animal debris (fur, skin, beak, claw, feathers) that ate inaccessible to other animals. It is only when these keratin-digesting animals attack processed wool goods that they are classified as pests. Very often they enter domestic or industrial huildings from natural habitats such as birds nests. 

Delivery systems that respond to changes in pH have been known to the pharmaceutical industry for more than a century. The pH-sensitive enteric coating is probably the oldest controUed-release technology. Unna introduced an enteric tablet coating based on keratin in 1884 (108). Enteric coatings are used primarily to protect the gastric mucosa from local irritation or to ensure that tablets do not dissolve until they reach the intestine. 

The egg shell is 94% calcium carbonate [471-34-17, CaCO, 1% calcium phosphate [7758-23-8] and a small amount of magnesium carbonate [546-93-0]. A water-insoluble keratin-type protein is found within the shell and in the outer cuticle coating. The pores of the shell allow carbon dioxide and water to escape during storage. The shell is separated from the egg contents by two protein membranes. The air cell formed by separation of these membranes increases in size because of water loss. The air cell originally forms because of the contraction of the Hquid within the egg shell when the temperature changes from the body temperature of the hen at 41.6°C to a storage temperature of the egg at 7.2°C. 

Perutz, M.F. New x-ray evidence on the configuration of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains in poly-g-benzyl-t-glutamate, keratin and haemoglobin. Nature 167 1053-1054, 1951. 

Alpha helices are sufficiently versatile to produce many very different classes of structures. In membrane-bound proteins, the regions inside the membranes are frequently a helices whose surfaces are covered by hydrophobic side chains suitable for the hydrophobic environment inside the membranes. Membrane-bound proteins are described in Chapter 12. Alpha helices are also frequently used to produce structural and motile proteins with various different properties and functions. These can be typical fibrous proteins such as keratin, which is present in skin, hair, and feathers, or parts of the cellular machinery such as fibrinogen or the muscle proteins myosin and dystrophin. These a-helical proteins will be discussed in Chapter 14. 

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