Immunologic cosmetics

Topical drug preparations are applied for days or even weeks, cosmetics for a lifetime and skin contact is probably the most common form of exposure to industrial chemicals. Therefore, a knowledge of the cutaneous toxicity is important for an overall hazard assessment. Cutaneous toxicity or localised skin injury can be considered as a primary event, because the compound could be irritant or corrosive, or as a secondary immunologically mediated event causing a delayed hypersensitivity response. 

Three mechanisms are implicated in CUS immunologic (ICU), nonimmunologic (NICU), or uncertain mechanism.20 ICU is a type I hypersensitivity reaction that is IgE mediated and is associated with atopy. NICU is the more common variety of CUS. NICU due to cosmetics is most commonly caused by fragrances (e.g., cinnamic aldehyde) and preservatives (e.g., benzoic acid and sorbic acid).2 Parabens have been documented by passive transfer to cause ICU.21... 

An amber-yellow coloured oil with a pleasant characteristic odour. Particularly suited to greasy complexions as it rapidly penetrates the skin, having an astringent and circulatory stimulating effect in addition to its nutritive properties. When diluted with other carriers like sunflower or grapeseed the blend may benefit conditions like acne. Cosmetically hazelnut oil is used in sun filter lotions and creams, soaps, shampoos and other hair products. Its main fatty acids are oleic (70-84%), linoleic (9-19%) and stearic (1-4%). It has been reported to cause immunological urticaria (a skin condition also known as hives) and in common with other nut oils there is a possibility of anaphylactic shock. 

Most cases of contact urticaria are of non-immunolo-gical origin, presumably due to the direct release of histamine, slow-reacting substance of anaphylaxis (SRS-A), bradykinin, or other vasoactive substances. Topical drugs and ingredients of cosmetics that have caused non-immunological contact urticaria are listed in Table 2. 

All these theoretically interesting issues are also very important for the elaboration of new processes in biotechnology, immunology, and medicine, as well as in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. 

Between 12 and IS billion US per year are spent for analytical purposes worldwide. In this sum the analytical usage of enzymes in clinical chemistry, food and cosmetic industry, and biotechnology for the routine measurement of about 80 substances, mainly low-molecular mass metabolites but also effectors, inhibitors, and the activity of enzymes themselves, is included. A wide range of immunoassays for low-molecular mass haptens, macro-molecules, and microorganisms have been made available in recent years through the enormous progress in immunological research, especially by the preparation of monoclonal antibodies. About 1 billion immunoassays are sold per year. 

This includes devices that do not achieve their principal intended action in or on die human body by pharmacological, immunological or metabolic means, but i ch may be assisted in their function by such means. Thus medical devices must be distinguished from medicinal products, cosmetics, and food products. A medicinal product is defined in the EU by Directive 2001/83/EC as any substance or combination of substances presented for treating or preventing disease in human beings. The primary effect of a medical device is therefore physical, in contrast to medicinal products such as pharmaceutical drugs, which exert a biochemical effect. 

Liposomes were introduced into commercial cosmetics and face creams about 1987, and have potential value in medicinal creams and ointments as tissue promoters. Because of their high water content, moisturising properties are claimed. Liposomes containing dyestuffs in their aqueous core are used for diagnostic tests in immunology. 

Jones 1998). Other offending agents responsible for occupational airborne immunological contact urticaria are cosmetics, fruit, vegetables, animal hair, ammonium persulphate, anhydrides (Tarvainen et al. 1995), etc. 

The 5% sorbic acid aqua solution is a weak acid that can produce a burning and stinging sensation in the skin (Frosch 1995). It can also produce an immediate non-immunological contact reaction (Clemmensen and Hjorth 1982 Safford et al. 1990). Some cases of burning mouth syndrome are likely attributable to sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a frequently used preservative found in foods and cosmetics. The patch-test concentration is 2% pet. Allergic reactions do occur (the primary sensitization that occurs in some cases is probably due to potassium sorbate) (Ramsing and Menne 1993 Giordano et al. 1996). 

There are several functional aspects of the compounds to be considered in the cosmetic applications. The primary requisite is its biocompatibility with the skin or hair. The compound should be safe and does not elicit any adverse immunological response. As performance of the compound is related to its structure and physiochemical properties, a proper downstream processing is required to purify the compounds with the intact structure and functional properties. Once a compound shows a promising skin/ hair care activities, a cosmetic formulation could be designed and its safety is checked by animal testing or human skin equivalent testing. At times, volunteer studies have also been performed to check the effectiveness and side effects of the cosmetic formulation. Different functional properties of cosmetically important compounds are discussed below. 

Beta-glucan is not water-soluble, and although it stimulates significant immunological response when applied as a solid, this form of delivery is not attractive from a cosmetic perspective. To improve it, the water solubility characteristics have been enhanced by carboxymethylating native P-glucan (54) (1,203-205). This modification does not appear to hamper the immune response and definitely improves the polysaccharide s personal care utility. 

The convenient properties of liquid and solid dimethylpolysiloxanes (thermal and chemical stability, hydrophobicity, anti-adhesive behavior, etc.) make them suitable for a variety of technical applications in medicine. Especially pure preparations (Silastic ) have been used to construct artificial limbs, gullets, cardiac valves, trachea, etc., and in face-lifting. Silicon rubber breast implants, which are filled with a polysiloxane gel, have been used cosmetically. Synthetic arteries impregnated with silicon do not break or cause coagulation, they are flexible, and they are well tolerated immunologically. Silicones prevent the formation of foam in equipment for artificial blood circulation (heart-lung machines). The surfaces of such equipment, and of the... 

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