Shampoos preparation

The most widely used alkyl sulfate in shampoo preparation is lauryl sulfate. The alkyl component of this sulfate ranges from C-10 to C-18 with a predominance of the C-12 (lauryl) component. By distillation of the fatty alcohol, certain cuts can be obtained which offer the best effects in foaming, cleansing, and rinsing properties for the alkyl sulfate preparation. The range which appears to be most desirable is between C-12 and C-16. Lauryl sulfate detergents are available in various salt forms with the sodium, ammonium, and triethanolamine types being used most frequently in shampoos. 

Hlkanolamides. The fatty acid alkanolamides are used widely ia shampoo formulations as viscosity and lather builders. They are formed by the condensation of a fatty acid with a primary or secondary alkanolamine. The early amides were compositions of 2 1 alkanolamine to fatty acid. Available technology allows the formation of amides with a 1 1 ratio of these additives. These amides are classified as superamide types. The typical amide used ia shampoo preparations usually contains the mono- or diethanolamine adduct, eg, lauric diethanolamide [120-40-1] (see Amides, fatty acid). 

Baby Shampoos. These shampoos, specifically marketed for small children, feature a non-eye stinging quaHty. The majority of the products in this category are based on an amphoteric detergent system a system combining the use of an imidazoline amphoteric with an ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has been successfiiUy marketed (15,16). The sulfosuccinates also have been suggested for baby shampoo preparation because of thek mildness... 

Shampoos have been prepared in various forms, and have included systems that are thick and thin, clear and opaque, pourable Hquids, soflds, gels, pastes, powders, flakes, and aerosol types. In many cases, shampoos have been prepared and directed for various hair types, eg, normal, dry, damaged, and color treated. Most marketed shampoos (ca 1993) are primarily clear Hquid and opaque lotion types gel and paste forms also are available. Aerosol shampoos are available to the consumer however, their impact on the market has been limited to the dry shampoo aerosol. 

Anionic Surfactants. In terms of general usage in cosmetic products, the anionics are by far the most widely used and are chiefly found in shampoo systems. They provide the formulator with the basic conditions for preparing these products, ie, foaming, cleansing, and solubiHty. 

AlkylPtherSulfates. These surfactants are also found in shampoo appHcations. They are prepared similarly to alkyl sulfates except that the fatty alcohol is... 

A.gllsethionates. These are among the oldest of the synthetic detergents and were developed ia Germany to overcome problems of hard water. They are prepared by reaction of fatty acid chlorides with a salt of isethionic acid, ie, 2-hydroxyethanesulfonic acid [107-36-8]. These detergents have moderate foaming properties and have seen only limited use ia shampoos. 

Manufacture, Evaluation, and Safety. The manufacture of shampoos is a relatively simple operation requiring a suitable stainless steel kettie with provisions for heating and cooling and equipped with appropriately sized mixers. Although shampoos are easily handled during preparation, precautions should be taken to not aerate the product. Cream shampoos are particulady sensitive to aeration and require more special care in their manufacture. 

Medicine and Nutrition. A stabilized buffered suspension of selenium sulfide has been marketed for many years as Selsun Blue (Abbott Laboratories) for control of seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp. A similar sulfur or selenium sulfide shampoo containing a metallic cation complex has been prepared (122). Topical appHcation of selenium sulfide controls dermatitis, pmritis, and mange iu dogs (see Cosmetics Veterinarydrugs). 

Emulsions of fatty- and petroleum-based substances, both oils and waxes, of the o/w type are made by using blends of sorbitan fatty esters and their poly(oxyethylene) derivatives. Mixtures of poly(oxyethylene(20)) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate 60) and sorbitan monostearate are typical examples of blends used for lotions and creams. Both sorbitan fatty acid esters and their poly(oxyethylene) derivatives are particularly advantageous in cosmetic uses because of their very low skin irritant properties. Sorbitan fatty ester emulsifiers for w/o emulsions of mineral oil are used in hair preparations of both the lotion and cream type. Poly(oxyethylene(20)) sorbitan monolaurate is useflil in shampoo formulations (see Hairpreparations). Poly(oxyethylene) sorbitan surfactants are also used for solubilization of essential oils in the preparation of colognes and after-shave lotions. 

International Specialty Products (ISP) suppHes ethyl, isopropyl, and -butyl half-esters of PMVEMA as 50% solutions in ethanol or 2-propanol. Typical properties are shown in Table 8. These half-esters do not dissolve in water but are soluble in dilute aqueous alkaU and in aqueous alcohoHc amine solutions. The main appHcation for the half-esters is in hairsprays where they combine excellent hair-holding properties at high humidity without making the hair stiff or harsh. These half-esters are easily removed during shampooing, have a very low order of toxicity, and form tack-free films that exhibit good gloss, luster, and sheen (see Hair preparations). 

Castor esters have been found to be nonirritating and noncomedogenic to the skin. Cetyl ricinoleate was found to be an effective noncomedogenic moisturizer (118). Castor-based quaternaries prepared by reaction of a castor fatty acid and a tertiary diamine are used for hair care. The ricinoleic quaternium is incorporated into clear shampoo formulations for foam enhancement and conditioning (119,120). 

Surfactants and Dispersants. Castor od can be transformed from an od- to a water-soluble surfactant, depending on the moles of ethylene oxide added to its hydroxyl group. A 40 mole ethylene oxide adduct of castor od, known as PEG-40 castor od, is a surfactant that has cosolvent properties and is utilized as a fragrance solubilizer (118). Glycol hydroxystearate emulsifiers are formulated into shampoos to impart finer peadescence and give better stabdity than gylcol stearates (118) (see Hair preparation). 

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