Perfumes jasmine

A commercially important outlet in the fragrance industry is the methyl dihydrojasmonate [24851-98-7] (26) which is made by Michael addition of a malonate to 2-pentyl-2-cyclopenten-l-one [91791 -21 -8] (52) and which is used in perfumery for blossom fragrances, particularly jasmine (see Perfumes). 

Pommade. These are botanical extracts prepared by the enfleurage method wherein flower petals are placed on a layer of fat which extracts the essential oil. This method is appHed to low odored flowers, which do not yield appreciable oil on steam or water distillation, or flowers of valuable but dehcate odor (such as jasmin), which are destroyed on such treatment. Pommades, as such, are seldom used by the industry at present (ca 1995), but are further processed to provide more concentrated extracts such as absolutes. Absolutes, being alcohol-soluble, are much more convenient forms for the perfumer. 

Jasmin. "If the rose is the queen of flowers, the jasmin is the fairest and prettiest priacess. The two together reign supreme ia the world of flowers as well as ia the world of perfume" (12). As ia the case of rose, jasmin has been the subject of many iavestigations, and mote than 95 compounds have been identified to date ia extracts of Jasminum officinale L. vat. grandijlorum, the source of commercial jasmin ok, concrete, and absolute. The principal components ate shown ia Table 3 (13). 

Orienta.lFa.mily. In these perfumes, a mossy, woody, and spicy accord combines with the sweetness of vanilla or balsam and is accented with animal notes such as amber, civet, and musk. The most important floral accords used are rose and jasmine. 

Jasmine. Jasmine is one of the most precious florals used ia perfumery. The concrete of jasmine is produced by hydrocarbon extraction of flowers from Jasminum officinale (var. GrandijJorum). The concrete is then converted to absolute by alcohoHc extraction. It is produced ia many countries, the most important of which is India, followed by Egypt. Jasmine products are rather expensive and are produced ia relatively small amounts compared with other materials. However, jasmine is particularly important ia perfume creation for its great power and aesthetic quaUties. Eour of the principal odor contributors to jasmine are OT-jasmone [488-10-8] (14), methyl jasmonate [91905-974-] (15), benzyl acetate [140-11 ], and iudole [120-72-9] (16). 

Orange Flower. Extraction of freshly picked flowers of the bitter orange tree, dims aurantium (subspecies amard) for the production of concrete is carried out mainly ia Morocco and Tunisia. Most of this material is processed further to give orange flower absolute, one of the most important absolutes used ia perfumes after rose and jasmine. It is highly valued ia perfumery, even when used at low levels, for its long-lasting, rich, warm, yet dehcate and fresh floralcy. The material is a complex mixture, to which methyl anthranilate [134-20-3] linalool (3), methyl jasmonate (15), and iadole (16) are important odor contributors. 

In an important next step, it has been found that flowers and other plant parts can be analyzed by using head space techniques without removing them from the living plant (3). It was immediately observed that there are remarkable differences in the volatile compositions observed from Hve and picked flowers. This is exemplified for jasmine flowers in Table 3. Reconstitutions produced from this information have provided perfumers with novel and fresh notes for use in their creations. This technique continues to be appHed to many kinds and varieties of flowers, leaves (herbs, spices), and fmits. The reasons for the remarkable differences observed are not known. 

Essential oils are obtained from fmits and flowers (61,62). Volatile esters of short- and medium-chain carboxyHc acids or aromatic carboxyHc acids with short- and medium-chain alcohols are primary constituents of essential oils, eg, ethyl acetate in wines, brandy, and in fmits such as pineapple ben2yl acetate in jasmine and gardenia methyl saHcylate in oils of wintergreen and sweet birch. Most of these naturally occurring esters in essential oils have pleasant odors, and either they or their synthetic counterparts are used in the confectionery, beverage, perfume, cosmetic, and soap industries (see Oils, essential). 

Benzyl Acetate.—This ester is a constituent of the oils of jasmin, ylang-ylang, and similar flower oils. It has not a very intense odour, but is essential to the successful production of such perfumes as artificial jasmin. It has the formula CgHg, CH2. O. OCCH3. It is a colourless oU, boiling at 206° at ordinary pressure, and has a specific gravity 1-0570 at 16° and a refractive index 1-5034 . The propionic ester has the formula C0H5CH2OOCCH2CH3, and closely resembles the acetate in odour. 

Acetal 105-57-7 Solvent and odorant Cosmetics, jasmine perfumes, fruit flavors Highly flammable moderately toxic narcotic... 

This treatise of Porta s, which is very different in plan and content from the book on distillation in his earlier work, is divided into nine books, dealing successively with the kinds of distillation, the methods and apparatus for distillation in general, furnaces, retorts, condensers, etc. with the preparation of distilled perfumed waters, from roses, violets, myrtle, lavender, jasmine, lilies, etc. with... 

Lmalool [78-70-6] - [PERFUMES] (Vol 18) - [TERPENOIDS] (Vol 23) -in anise star oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -aroma chemical [PERFUMES] (Vol 18) -in Bergamot oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in caraway oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -m Geranium Bourbon oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in jasmin oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lavender [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lavender [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in lime oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -odor of [FLAVORCHARACTERIZATION] (Vol 11) -in oilbanum [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in orange oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -m osmanthus flowers [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in otto of rose [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in sweet basil oil [OILS, ESSENTIAL] (Vol 17) -in wine [WINE] (Supplement)... 

Moment Supreme, in combination with jasmin, rose, eugenol, clove, coumarin, and vetiveryl acetate, and with oakmoss in fougeres such as Fougere Royal, and Canoe. Few of these perfumes have survived in their original form, and amyl salicylate has largely fallen out of favor as a major structural component in fine perfumery, its place having been taken by the more elegant c/.s-3-hexenyl salicylate. 

The middle part of the perfume is a bouquet of floral notes reduced to their simplest components. Terpineol for lilac, styrallyl acetate for gardenia, phenylethyl alcohol for rose, hydroxycitronellal (10%) for muguet, and benzyl acetate and amyl cinnamic aldehyde for jasmin. 

Although the essential character of the perfume is built around the ingredients already mentioned, most of its richness and quality comes from the use of jasmin and rose absolutes. By the addition of these two materials many hundreds of individual ingredients are added that envelop and decorate the main structure of the perfume. Here we have a perfect example of classical simplicity combined with the complexity that comes from the use of fine natural materials. 

Although less closely related to L Air du Temps than Fidji, we may think of Anais Anais (Cacharel 1979) as a perfume created within the same tradition. Again its character is essentially floral, in this case a combination of "white flowers," including jasmin, muguet, lilac, magnolia, tuberose, honeysuckle, and carnation, with a complex of woody notes, musks, and salicylates (6%). 

The creation of Chanel No. 5 was based on the bold imaginative use of then available aroma chemicals in combination with fine natural products. Rose and jasmin absolutes were probably used at levels of around 4% or 5%, which would not have been unusual at the time when the perfume was created. In addition there would have been natural musk, ambergris, and civet. 

To the floral side of the perfume has been added ylang, bringing out the carnation aspect of the eugenol-salicylate accord. This, with the jasmin and rose components, gives a more floral effect reminiscent of some of the older mellis-based perfumes such as Moment Supreme. The presence of methyl ionone also tends in this direction. The woody side of the accord is predominantly a combination of Iso E super and sandalwood. 

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