Tuberose

The Aowers of the tuberose PuliMilhet tnbnuea. are oultivutcd lo a oousiderable ertcnl in the South ol France, and are principally used for the tnanufttecure of concretes, pomades, and similar perfume materials. 

In many plants the glucoside is decomposed durfng the life of the plant in a manner different from that just described. The conditions are not understood, but in the case of such flowers as the jasmin and tuberose... 

Benzyl alcohol, C Hj. CHjOH, is the lowest member of the normal series of aromatic alcohols containing the benzene nucleus. It exists to a certain extent in the free state, but more often in the form of esters, principally of acetic, benzoic, and cinnamic acids, in a number of essential oils, such as those of jasmin, tuberose, cassie fiowers, and ylang-ylang. 

Methyl Anthranilate.—This ester is one of extreme importance, and to it is largely due the possibility of manufacturing artificial neroli oils. It was discovered as a constituent of neroli oil in 1895 by Walbaum, and has since been identified in numerous other flower oils, such as tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmin, and gardenia. Its value in synthetic perfumery is therefore obvious. Its constitution is that of a methyl ester or orthp-amido-benzoic acid, of the formula here shown —... 

More than 95% of all pressure sores are located on the lower part of the body. The most common sites are the sacral and coccygeal areas, ischial tuberosities, and greater trochanter. 

Methyl benzoate is used in perfume bases, such as ylang-ylang and tuberose types. 

R = CH2C6Hs, C14H12O2, Mr 212.25, 6p2.okPa 170-171 °C, df 1.1121, ng 1.5680, is the main component of Peru balsam oil. It occurs in fairly large amounts in a number of blossom concretes and absolutes (e.g., tuberose and hyacinth). It forms either a viscous liquid or solid flakes mp 21 22°C) and has a weak, sweet-balsamic odor. It is prepared either by transesterification of technical methyl benzoate with benzyl alcohol, or from benzyl chloride and sodium benzoate. A third process starts with benzaldehyde which is converted in high yield into benzyl benzoate in the presence of sodium or aluminum benzylate (Tishchenko reaction). 

Raw materials derived from intensive agricultural cultivation are usually relatively inexpensive. However, the prices of some natural materials may exceed 1000 per kilogram because cultivation and harvesting of these plants are tedious and product yields are very low. Examples of extremely valuable ingredients of fragrance and flavor creations include rose oil, jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute, orris root oil, ambrette seed oil, angelica root oil, and orange flower oil [220]. 

Concretes, which are actually intermediate products (see below), are prepared mainly from flowers (rose, jasmine, tuberose, jonquil, ylang-ylang, mimosa, boronia, etc.), but also from other plant materials (lavender, lavandin, geranium, clary sage, violet leaves, oak moss, etc.). A yield of ca. 0.3% based on the starting flower material, is obtained in the production of jasmine concrete. 

Tuberose absolute is obtained by solvent extraction, via the concrete, from the blossoms of Polianthes tuberosa L. (Agavaceae). The plants are cultivated in Egypt and India. Tuberose absolute was formerly produced in southern France by enfieurage. It is an orange to brown liquid with a sweet-narcotic blossom odor and is used in modern, flowery perfume compositions. Its main constituents are esters of benzoic acid [801, 802], FCT 2000 (38, suppl. 3) p. S231, [8024-05-3], [94334-35-7],... 

Methyl anthranilate 172 (Structure 4.51) is found in the oils of sweet orange, lemon, mandarin, bergamot, neroli and ylang-ylang oils and jasmine and tuberose absolutes. Methyl N-methyl anthranilate 173 is the main constituent of mandarin petit grain oil, and occurs also in bitter orange, mandarin and rue oils. 

Lilac.—The flowers of this shrub—eyrinya vulgaris —are very fragrant, and yield a perfume by the process of enfleurage, resembling that from the tuberose. 

By Enfleurage.—There are certain flowers, the odors of which are so delicate that they will not bear even the little heat used in the preoeding method and For these the process of enfleurage or absorption is employed. Jessamine, mignonette, tuberose, and similar flowers, belong to this category. 

Poudre A Iq, Vanille Brume—lor the skin or for sachets.—Powdered vanilla, rose leaves, lump storax, benzoin, rhodium, palllsandre and ebony woods, each one pound powdered cloves, two ounces powdered musk, two drachms. Mix together with three pounds of starch sift, and add a few drops of extracts of tuberose acd jessamine. 

Enfieurage. This is an ancient process for capturing aromafic essential oils from flowers, such as jasmine and tuberose. In this now essentially obsolete process, freshly gathered flower petals are carefully spread on a sheet, usually glass, upon which is spread a very thin film of highly purified fat. The petals remain in contact with the fat film for 24 hours, after which the peials are removed and replaced with a fresh batch. The process requires from 30 to 40 repetitions before the fat becomes saturated with the essential oil. The fat at this point is called pomade, which is extracted with pure alcohol. Prior to the availability of more advanced technology, some essence manufacturers would have as many as a thousand petal frames in operation at one time. 

As he remarked that I found it difficult to walk upon the lilies, roses, jasmines, carnations, tuberoses, and a prodigious variety of other flowers, most beautiful and curious to behold, which blossomed even upon the road, he inquired, with a smile, if I feared to harm those plants. I answered that I was well aware they were devoid of a sensitive soul, but seeing they were most rare in my own country, I shrank from trampling them underfoot. Then,... 

Although less closely related to L Air du Temps than Fidji, we may think of Anais Anais (Cacharel 1979) as a perfume created within the same tradition. Again its character is essentially floral, in this case a combination of "white flowers," including jasmin, muguet, lilac, magnolia, tuberose, honeysuckle, and carnation, with a complex of woody notes, musks, and salicylates (6%). 

The green side of the perfume which is less pronounced than in Fidji, and more floral, is based on phenylacetaldehyde and cA-3-hexenyl acetate with perhaps a trace of galbanum. Narcisse absolute may also be used. Other materials that add to the building up of the white flower character are Lilial and cyclamen aldehyde in addition to the hydroxycitronellal and Lyral. The tuberose character can be given by the use of the Schiff base derived from methyl anthranilate and Helional, or by the direct addition of methyl anthranilate. The mossy side of the perfume is represented by Evemyl. 

Although natural flower absolutes are less important than in Chanel No. 5 and Arpege in establishing the essential character of the fragrance, rose, jasmin, and tuberose may be added, together with tonka, to back up the coumarin (1.5%), and a trace of natural vanilla. A trace also of ambrette seed can give a wonderful smoothness to the composition, working particularly well as part of the rose accord. 

In later perfumes, such as Loulou (Cacharel 1987), the oriental and tuberose notes are further developed along the lines of Oscar de la Renta to give what may be thought of as a hybrid or "floriental" effect. 

Another perfume that may be included in the sweet floral family, and that has enjoyed great success in the United States, is Vanderbilt, created in 1981. Built around a combination of fresh citrus top notes, orange blossom, and tuberose, Hedione, methyl ionone, heliotropin, vanillin, and musk ketone, with iso E super coming in as the woody note, it lacks much of the heavy floral sweetness of the other perfumes in the group, lacking most of the eugenol with little or no ylang or coumarin. 

The renaissance of the oriental theme over the past 25 years can be seen as the starting point for a number of new directions in perfumery. One of these, which we saw in the creation of Must de Cartier, has been toward a group of dominantly sandalwood perfumes. Many valuable sandalwood synthetics are now available, including Brahmanol, Sandranol, Madranol, and Sandalore, and these synthetics have been used in conjunction with natural sandalwood in the creation of such perfumes as Joop and Samsara. Another important direction has been toward the so-called floriental perfumes, such as Loulou, which combine the sweetness of an oriental perfume with a floral complex usually based on tuberose. This type of perfume can be seen as a link between the tme orientals and the sweet floral perfumes discussed in the previous section. 

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