Perfume description

The perfumers descriptions were more detailed than the consumers , but there was a strong similarity between the global structure of the experts multidimensional sensory map and the consumers one. This major result strengthens both the consumer and the expert studies as complementary, with two connected fragrances descriptions a more detailed and technical vision from perfume creators and more global and related to evocations from the consumers. 

Chemical compounds having odor and taste number in the thousands. In 1969 a description of the odor characteristics of more than three thousand chemical compounds used in the flavor and perfume industries were described (41). The Hst of volatile compounds found in food that may contribute to odor and taste is even larger (42), and the Hst of all possible flavor compounds, including those that have yet to be synthesized, is greater than a thousand. Many different compounds have the same flavor character or quaUty, differing perhaps in their relative intensity but indistinguishable in the type of flavor they ehcit. The exact number of different flavor quaUties is not known, but it appears to be much less than the total number of compounds with flavor. 

Sensory analysis is concerned with quantifying human responses to stimuli. It is a precise, descriptive and measuring technique that characterizes the stimulus. In this case, the particular concern is to evaluate the odour of a perfume, perfume ingredient or perfumed product. This is an important process in enabling the perfumer to understand and quantify the sensory characteristics of the product, as only then can they be manipulated in a controlled way as part of the creative process. 

However, this sort of comparison becomes extremely complex when large numbers of perfumes are involved. Multivariate analysis methods are descriptive procedures that help in this process. These methods are used to model or describe data such that they can be more easily understood by the researcher and thus simplify data comparison. Sophisticated software now exists that makes this kind of analysis possible without it being necessary to understand fully the mathematical modelling involved in the analysis. However, to interpret and understand the results a basic understanding of the technique is necessary. 

Table A2 illustrates essentially what the perfume-ethanol-water mix is in a fragrance bottle, denoted by its description. Figure A1 traces the historical growth of alchemical tradition from the five main centres of civilization through 5000 years of history to the present.

After nearly 40 years of activity in perfume and flavor research, the author has considered that a detailed description of coffee flavor volatile constituents could make people concretely acquainted with the identity and the organoleptic properties of the hundreds of constituents they unconsciously swallow every day. From the simple to the more complex structures, each compound brings a contribution to the pleasure felt when drinking a cup of good coffee. Through this book, organic and analytical chemists, quality control specialists and flavorists, will have at their disposal information on the nearly 300 and 850 volatile constituents which have been respectively identified in green and roast coffee. 

Security was quite different from all the other chapters in the book. It was very brief at 12 pages, tied as shortest with the introductory chapter Nature Points the Way . The chapter was also very vague compared to the lists and descriptions that accompanied the other sections. There was no mention of the U S. Chemical Warfare Service, the main source of chemical weapons for the American forces in World War I. In fact, no specific war chemicals were referred to by name and Morrison did not name a single chemist, unlike the other chapters that list materials and note the work of famous scientists. About a third of the chapter is devoted to fire fighting, police work, and safety at sea rather than warfare. Morrison deals with actual gas warfare in a mere two paragraphs, comparing it to perfume. 

This article deals with the different types of cosmetic formulations (including toiletries), forms and functions, analytes of interest, pretreatment and sample preparation, and analytical techniques. A thorough description of the main ingredients of toiletries - namely surfactants, is given in another article and due to their particular relevance and special characteristics, perfumes are also considered elsewhere. 

Successful attempts to collect product descriptions from professional sensory experts have relied on Flash Profile approaches (Eladan et al. (2005) with perfumers, Lassoued et al. (2008) with bakers and milling professionals, Dairou et al. (2003) with car pilots), on Napping and Projective Mapping (Perrin et al. (2008) with wine professionals, Nestrud and Lawless (2008) with culinary professionals), or on Free Sorting (Souffiet et al. (2004) with textile experts, Ballester et al. (2008) with wine experts). Several other examples are presented throughout this book. 

On the other hand, from the consumer s point of view, it is difficult to understand the olfactory characteristics of a perfume solely on the basis of its description by the beauty consultants. Most of the vocabulary is indeed common to very different fragrances (i.e. Floral or Fresh ), and descriptions are often not so discriminating. 

Two Hash Profiles were performed in 2005 with a similar methodology to compare perfumers and consumers perceptions and descriptions of the same fragrance set (Gazano et al, 2005). Experimental conditions, results and limitations are described in the following section. 

In the second experiment, a consumer panel was composed of 89 naive French consumers. They were women aged from 27 to 55 years old. They all were heavy users of perfumes from the selective market, but none of them had prior experience in the sensory descriptive profiling of perfumes. 

The study was conducted in three different countries China, France and United States. In each country, the panel was composed of 100 consumers 70 were women and 30 were men, and between the ages of 18 and 55. All participants were heavy users of perfumes from the selective market, but had no previous experience of sensory descriptive analysis of perfumes. 

Olfactory Description (What does this perfume smeU like )... 

Results of the Associated Emotions profile. As regards the Emotions, G is apart from H and 1 for France and China, unlike the Olfactory positioning. And for France, C is apart from women s fragrances and E from men s fragrances. Moreover, clusters slightly break up for France. (Fig. 19.12). The perception of these perfumes through emotions has evolved versus the strictly olfactory description, into an even finer discrimination for French consumers. 

These studies show how it is possible to bring to the perfume universe a specificity on the basis of a consumer language, with descriptive terms but also emotions and images, and not only on a predefined coded language. 

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