Cotton fabrics cellulase

L. O. Asferg and T. Videbaek, Softening and Polishing of Cotton Fabrics by Cellulase Treatment, ITB Dyeing/Printing/Finishing, 2/90 (1990). 

An important chemical finishing process for cotton fabrics is that of mercerization, which improves strength, luster, and dye receptivity. Mercerization involves brief exposure of the fabric under tension to concentrated (20—25 wt %) NaOH solution (14). In this treatment, the cotton fibers become more circular in cross-section and smoother in surface appearance, which increases their luster. At the molecular level, mercerization causes a decrease in the degree of crystallinity and a transformation of the cellulose crystal form. These fine structural changes increase the moisture and dye absorption properties of the fiber. Biopolishing is a relatively new treatment of cotton fabrics, involving cellulase enzymes, to produce special surface effects (15). 

Tyndall, R.M. Application of Cellulase Enzymes to Cotton Fabrics and Garments, AATCC Book of Papers, 259-273 (1991). 

Protein and starch stains are removed by proteases and amylases, respectively. Fats and oils are generally difficult to remove at low wash temperatures by conventional detergents. By using lipases, it is possible to improve the removal of fats/oils of animal and vegetable origin even at temperatures where the fatty material is in a solid form. Particulate soils can be difficult to remove, especially if the particle size is small. Removal of particulate soil from cotton fabric can be improved by use of a cellulase which removes cellulose fibrils from the surface of the yam. 

In recent years, the use of cotton in garments has witnessed a revival. The higher comfort level of cotton fabric as compared to man-made fibers tilts the balance of customer favor towards cotton as the basic fiber in clothes. After many wash cycles, however, both the appearance and the soft feel of the cotton fabric are lost the surface appears bland and the fabric touch has turned rough. This roughness stems at least in part from loose ends of cotton fibers which have separated from the bulk fabric and stick out on the surface. To combat this phenomenon termed pilling, cellulases have been developed to preserve both the appearance and feel of cotton fabric during washing. 

Andreaus, I, Pereira Ramos, L., and Cavaco-Paulo, A. 2000b. Dry Action of Tricho-derma reesei Cellulases on Cotton fabrics. /. Soc. Dyers Col, 116,121-125. Asakura, T., Adachi, K., and Schwartz, E. 1978. Stabilizing effect of various organic solvents on protein. /. Biol. Chem 255(18), 6423-6425. 

Ueda, M., Koo, H., Wakida, T., and Yoshimura, Y. 1994. Cellulase Treatment of Cotton Fabrics Part II Inhibitory Effect of Surfactants on Cellulase Catalytic Reaction. Textile Res. J., 64 (10) 615-618. 

The effects of cellulase enzymes on cotton substrates that were dyed with various classes of dyes have been reported. It was found that vat dyes do not inhibit cellulase activity on cotton, and hydrolysis of the substrate with subsequent color removal transpires. In contrast, cellulase activity on cotton was inhibited by the presence of some direct and reactive dyes. There is the probability that a dye-enzyme complex is formed with less activity than that of the free enzyme. The increased weight loss from enzymatic treatment on untreated cellulose is associated with a slight reduction in dye sorption, and this may be because of a reduction of amorphous regions in cellulose where dye molecules are usually sorbed. Cellulase activity is more prominent on mercerized cotton than on unmercerized cotton. This is because mercerization is associated with a decrease in the crystallinity of the cellulosic structure [540]. One major negative aspect of cellulase treatment of cotton fabric is the strength loss associated with the approximately 3-5% weight reduction under normal treating conditions. Of course, this is to be expected after cellulose is hydrolyzed. Future research efforts may lead to processes in which enzymes... 

A third approach to reducing pilling tendency is applicable to 100 % cotton fabrics. As described in Chapter 17 on enzymatic finishes the use of cellulase enzymes during wet processing can remove enough of the loose fibres in the yams so that pilling is greatly reduced. 

Enzyme suppliers determine the activity of their products by measuring the extent of the catalysed reaction under carefully controlled conditions. A standard test exists for amylases (AATCC Test Method 103) , but the evaluation of cellulases is more complex and can vary from supplier to supplier. One common method is to measure the degradation of carboxymethylcellulose solutions. Another is to determine the weight or strength loss of standard cotton fabrics under laboratory conditions where there is a correlation problem, because the mechanical conditions of the technical application are different to the laboratory ones. For example, the hydrolysis degree, HD, is determined by HD = (m - m)/m where and m are the weight of the test material before and after bio-fmishing. 

FIG. 8.20 Effect of cellulase on the color clarity and pilling tendency of a cotton fabric. European machine at 40°C using a new black cotton fabric. (Reproduced from Gormsen, E., Roshholm, P., and Lykke, M., in Proceedings of the 3rd World Conference on Detergents Global Perspectives, Cahn, A., Ed., AOCS Press, Champaign, IL, 1994, p. 198. With permission.)... 

Cellulase is a complex of enzymes showing various types of activities. Cellulose substrates include highly resistant crystalline forms such as cotton, various types of microcrystalline cellulose such as Avicel and hydrocellulose, sulfite pulps such as Solka Floe, as well as filter paper and cotton fabrics. More susceptible substrates include swollen or reprecipitated cellulose, cellophane, and ball-milled cellulose. Most susceptible are the soluble derivatives (of low D.S.) such as carboxymethylcellulose and cellulose sulfate. It is not surprising that there are many assay methods to detect or measure cellulase (9). These methods differ markedly in sensitivity, and in cellulase components detected, depending on the substrate used, the effect measured, and the duration and conditions of... 

Csiszar, E., Urbanszki, K., and Szakacs, G. (2001). Biotreatment of desized cotton fabric by commercial cellulase and xylanase enzymes, I. Mol. 

Heikinheimo, L., Oinonen, A. M., Paulo, A. C., and Buchert J. (2003). Effect of purified Thchderrrra reesei cellulases on formation of cotton powder from cotton fabric,90(7), 1917-1922. 

Tyndall, R. M. (1996). Improving the softness and surface appearance of cotton fabrics and garments by treatment with cellulase enzymes. 

Nithya, E., Radhai, R., Rajendran, R., Shalini, S., Rajendran, V., and Ja3rakumar, S. (2011). Synergetic effect of DC air plasma and cellulase enzyme treatment on the hydrophilicity of cotton fabrics, Carbohyd Polvm.. 83,1652-1658. 

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