Textiles historic

Textile dyes were, until the nineteenth century invention of aniline dyes, derived from biological sources plants or animals, eg, insects or, as in the case of the highly prized classical dyestuff Tyrian purple, a shellfish. Some of these natural dyes are so-caUed vat dyes, eg, indigo and Tyrian purple, in which a chemical modification after binding to the fiber results in the intended color. Some others are direct dyes, eg, walnut sheU and safflower, that can be apphed directly to the fiber. The majority, however, are mordant dyes a metal salt precipitated onto the fiber facUitates the binding of the dyestuff Aluminum, iron, and tin salts ate the most common historical mordants. The color of the dyed textile depends on the mordant used for example, cochineal is crimson when mordanted with aluminum, purple with iron, and scarlet with tin (see Dyes AND DYE INTERMEDIATES). 

H. Schweppe, ia S. H. Zeronian and H. L. Needles, eds.. Historic Textile and Paper Materials II, Advances in Chemistry Series No. 410, American... 

R. L. EeUer, in J. C. Williams, ed.. Preservation of Paper and Textiles of Historic and Artistic Value, Advances in Chemistry Series no. 164, American... 

Transverse Dimensions or Fineness. Historically, the quantity used to describe the fineness or coarseness of a fiber was the diameter. Eor fibers that have irregular cross-sections or that taper along their lengths, the term diameter has no useful meaning. Eor cylindrical fibers, however, diameter is an accurate measurement of the transverse dimension. Though textile fibers can be purchased in a variety of cross-sectional shapes, diameter is stiU a useful descriptor of the transverse dimension. Eiber diameter is important in determining not only the ease with which fibers can be twisted in converting them to yams, but also fiber stiffness, ie, fabric stiffness, and, alternatively, fabric softness and drapeabiHty. 

Reflectance Spectrophotometry. Because of discrepancies that can occur between strength and shade evaluations in solution and on textile substrates, the latter is often the preferred evaluation technique. In the case of dye manufacture, many dyes are standardized in solution but there is always a final control step where dyeings are prepared. Historically, such dyeings have been evaluated visually for the relative strength and the shade of the dye under test on the substrate, compared to the standard. More and more attempts are being made to do such evaluations objectively. Guidelines for the use of this technique have been pubflshed (43). 

Frazier test Measures the amount of air transmitted through a filter under selected differential pressures. Historically used for textile products. 

This chapter will cover sulfosuccinate monoesters and diesters. The monoesters are best used in cosmetics and toiletries the diesters—especially those based on 2-ethylhexanol—play an important role in, for example, the textile industry due to their outstanding wetting activities [5]. Sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamides are consumed in technical fields like emulsion polymerization. The next section discusses the historical development of the sulfosuccinates. 

Jaro, M. (2003), Metal threads in historical textiles, NATO Science Series, II Mathematics, Physics and Chemistry, Vol. 117 (Molecular and Structural Archaeology Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals), pp. 163-178. 

Kirby J. (1988), The preparation of early lake pigments A survey in Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles, 6th Mtg. (1987), National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh. 

Mell, C. C. (1932), A brief historical account of weld, Textile Colorist 35, 33-51. 

Schweppe, H. (1989), Identification of red madder and insect dyes by thin layer chromatography, in Historic Textile and Paper Materials II Conservation and Characterization, ACS, pp. 111-219. 

J. Wouters, I. Van den Berghe, B. Devia, Understanding historic dyeing technology a multi faced approach, in Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles, R. Janaway and P. Wyeth (Eds), Archetype Publications, London, 2005, pp. 187 193. 

Flavonoids bonded to fibres undergo photodegradation over the course of time their identification in historic textiles is thus often difficult. The analysis of a wool orange fibre (from a nineteenth century Aubusson tapestry) dyed with alum mordant and quercetin enabled the presence of quercetin (at m/z 301) and its decomposition products, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (at m/z 153) and methyl 3,4-dihydroxybenzoate (at m/z 167), to be confirmed. [30] The samples were hydrolysed with hydrochloric acid and analysed with RPLC MS. 

X. Zhang and R.A. Laursen, Development of mild extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in textiles of historical interest using LC diode array detector MS, Anal. Chem., 77, 2022 2025 (2005). 

M. Trojanowicz, L. Wojcik and K. Urbaniak Walczak, Identification of natural dyes in historical Coptic textiles by capillary electrophoresis with diode array detection, Chem. Anal. (Warsaw), 48, 607 620 (2003). 

P. Novotna, V. Pacakova, Z. Bosakova and K. Stulik, High performance liquid chromato graphic determination of some anthraquinone and naphthoquinone dyes occurring in historical textiles, J. Chromatogr. A, 863, 235 241 (1999). 

E.S.B. Ferreira, A. Quye, H. McNab, A.N. Hulme, J. Wouters and J.J. Boon, Development of analytical techniques for the study of natural yellow dyes in historic textiles, Dyes in History and Archaeology, 16/17, 179 186 (2001). 

I. Surowiec, A. Quye and M. Trojanowicz, Liquid chromatography determination of natural dyes in extracts from historical Scottish textiles excavated from peat bogs, J. Chromatogr. A, 1112, 209 217 (2006). 

B. Szostek, J. Orska Gawrys, I. Surowiec and M. Trojanowicz, Investigation of natural dyes occurring in historical Coptic textiles hy high performance liquid chromatography with UV vis and mass spectrometric detection, Journal of Chromatography, A, 1012, 179 192 (2003). 

Castilla y Leon, and Castilla la Mancha. This part is also the most significant for industrial plants such as biomass crops and oilseed rape. In the southernmost regions of Castilla La Mancha and Catalunya, dry fruit trees and vineyards increase in significance, while the Ebro River delta supports a well-developed rice farming activity. Diffuse pollution originated by pesticides application in the basin has been widely studied [1-3]. A historical pollution from chemical plants manufacturing solvents and chlorinated pesticides in the southern part of the river basin is also well known [4]. Automobile, textile, food, and wood industry as well as mining activities are important in the northern part. 

The composition of natural dyes in ancient textiles has also been investigated in detail. Thus, the application of RP-HPLC with DAD and MS detection for the separation and identification of natural dyes in historical Coptic textiles has been reported. The chemical... 

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