Perfumes vanilla

CaH803. Fine white needles, m.p. 82°C, b.p. 285°C, strong vanilla odour, characteristic taste. It occurs extensively in nature, and is the odoriferous principle of the vanilla pod it can be obtained from the glucoside coniferin. Vanillin is made commercially from the ligno-sulphonic acid obtained as a by-product in the manufacture of wood pulp. It is one of the most important flavouring and perfuming... 

Orienta.lFa.mily. In these perfumes, a mossy, woody, and spicy accord combines with the sweetness of vanilla or balsam and is accented with animal notes such as amber, civet, and musk. The most important floral accords used are rose and jasmine. 

In flavor formulations, vanillin is used widely either as a sweetener or as a flavor enhancer, not only in imitation vanilla flavor, but also in butter, chocolate, and aU. types of fmit flavors, root beer, cream soda, etc. It is widely acceptable at different concentrations 50—1000 ppm is quite normal in these types of finished products. Concentrations up to 20,000 ppm, ie, one part in fifty parts of finished goods, are also used for direct consumption such as toppings and icings. Ice cream and chocolate are among the largest outlets for vanillin in the food and confectionery industries, and their consumption is many times greater than that of the perfume and fragrance industry. 

Perfumes and Cosmetics. Vanillin, a crystal, is the main constituent of the vanilla bean. Its importance can be illustrated by the fact that human preferences in fragrances and in flavors, as determined by various studies, comprise three main smells or tastes rose, vanilla, and strawberry. 

The perfumers of the early twentieth century were delighted to be able to use a perfectly van ill a-like product in their compounds, but one that was at least a hundred times stronger than vanilla. Thus began what was subsequently called sophisticated perfumery. For many years a perfumery culture and language based on the experience and subjectivity of a few individual experts has developed and thrived (see Perfumes). 

Vanillin, CgHgOj, is one of the most important synthetic perfumes. It is the active odorous ingredient of the vanilla pod, in which it occurs to the extent of about 2 per cent., appearing on the surface of the bean as a fine white crystalline efflorescence. It occurs naturally also in Sumatra benzoin (about 1 per cent.), Siam benzoin (15 per cent.), and the balsams of Tolu and Peru (traces). Numerous other bodies have been recorded as containing it, such as asafoetida, beetroot and asparagus, the seeds of Lupinus albus, the seeds of Sosa canina, etc. 

Ethyl vanillin is a synthetic compound that is three and a half times stronger in flavor than real vanilla, although the flavor is not quite the same. Because it is less expensive and keeps better during storage and transport, ethyl vanillin is used as a substitute for vanilla in foods and perfumes. 

Vanilla is used in many products, usually sweetened foods, and scented products, such as perfumes and candles. 

These can be the natural material itself one example would be pieces of vanilla pod or an extract, e.g. vanilla extract. Extracts can be prepared in several ways. One is to distil or to steam distil the material of interest. Another is to extract the raw material with a solvent, e.g. ethyl alcohol. Alternatively, some materials are extracted by coating the leaves of a plant with cocoa butter and allowing the material of interest to migrate into the cocoa butter. These techniques are also used in preparing perfumery ingredients, indeed materials like orange oil are used in both flavours and perfumes. 

Flavors and fragrances are sensory stimuli. Of the two, flavors are more complex because they act on the olfactory bulb via their volatile components and on the taste buds which are stimulated by both volatile and non-volatile components. The overall response to a flavor is a synthesis of the effects of both types of components. The response to fragrances, on the other hand, results only from the action of volatile components. Because flavors and fragrances function via a common mechanism, many volatile materials are used for both purposes. This is nicely illustrated by the perfumers vocabulary for fragrance materials. A collection of some 160 words published by a famous perfumer, Ernest Shiftan (1) included 75 words usually associated with flavors such as almond, bacon, coconut, honey, lime, raspberry, spicy and vanilla. 

Some of the most successful bases contain quite simple accords of only two or three materials, perhaps dressed up with a number of auxiliary products. The combination of phenoxyethyl isobutyrate and dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, used in many fruity notes, produces an unmistakable character that survives even when used in trace amounts in a finished perfume. Similarly an ambergris base, made from a simple combination of labdanum, olibanum, and vanilla, brings an unmistakable effect. Such bases, which the perfumer may create for him- or herself, are not only valuable building blocks in the creation of a perfume but are a convenient way of introducing trace amounts of materials that in combination make a special contribution to the character of the final composition. 

Apart from the materials already mentioned the top note contains a simple mixture of bergamot and orange. The middle note is dominated by a traditional jasmin base, with muguet (hydroxycitronellal 10%), and rose. At the heart of the perfume is the classical chypre accord between vetiveryl acetate (10%), methyl ionone, oakmoss, aldehyde C14, coumarin, sandalwood, patchouli, musk ketone, and amber. The amber note can be reproduced by the simple but effective combination of labdanum, olibanum, and vanilla. Small amounts of other animalic notes such as civet may also be used. 

The uses of vanillin in international perfumery are many. In aldehydic perfumes, vanillin provides the powdery impression given by the background smell, usually up to 2% in the perfume concentrate. In fruity notes, vanillin enhances the various fruity constituents (0.1—0.5% in pears up to 2% in peaches) for instance, a peach note is not fully peach without vanillin. When vanillin is combined with some floral notes, such as heliotrope and orchid, which actually contain strong vanilla impressions, amounts of 2—5% are possible. However, with notes such as rose, orange flower, and jonquil, the addition of 0.1—2% vanillin can bring warmth and elegance. In woody families such as fougiire and chypre, and also in spicy perfumes, the harsh impression also needs the fine, smooth aroma provided by vanillin traces. 

Aldehydes aid ketones often have pleasant odors. They are found as components of many perfumes and flavorings, both natural and artificial. For example, citral has a strong lemon odor and is found in lemon and orange oils, cinnamaldehyde has a strong cinnamon odor and is found in cinnamon oil, and vanillin is a major component of vanilla flavoring. Camphor, isolated from the camphor tree, is used in liniments and inhalants, and muscone, which has a musky aroma, is used in many perfumes. 

Adedeji, J., Hartman, T.G. and Ho, C. (1993) Flavor characterization of different varieties of vanilla beans. Perfumer and Flavors 1 8, 11 5-133. 

Some flavouring compounds are also perfumes and may also be used as an intermediate in making other compounds. Two such large-scale flavouring compounds are vanillin (vanilla flavour as in ice cream) and menthol (mint flavour) both manufactured on a large scale and with many uses. 

Vanillin is widely used as a flavor in pharmaceuticals, foods, beverages, and confectionery products, to which it imparts a characteristic taste and odor of natural vanilla. It is also used in perfumes, as an analytical reagent and as an intermediate in the synthesis of a number of pharmaceuticals, particularly methyl-dopa. Additionally, it has been investigated as a potential therapeutic agent in sickle cell anemia and is claimed to have some antifungal properties. 

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