Hair fixatives

The Liquinet Corporation in Chicago introduced aerosol hairsprays into the marketplace in 1949 [52], and they have enjoyed considerable commercial success for more than two decades. However, hairspray sales peaked during 1969 and began to decline owing to public acceptance of more natural hairstyles not requiring hair fixatives. 

In the early to mid 1970s, hairspray sales declined even further because of environmental pressures to restrict the use of fluorocarbons in aerosol products. The largest drop in hairspray sales occurred in 1975, after Roland and Molina theorized how fluorocarbons deplete the ozone layer in the stratosphere. For additional details on the rise and the decline in hairspray sales, see the article by Root [53]. As indicated in the introductory section to this chapter, a great deal of current research is concerned with lowering VOCs in hair care products, and in particular in hairsprays, and the California (CARD) regulations outlined in the introduction are the driving force behind these efforts. 

Three types of hairsprays are being produced today pump hair sprays, hydrocarbon or dimethyl ether aerosols, and carbon dioxide aerosols. TTie first two of these products account for the major sales for this type of product. 

Hydrocarbon aerosol hair sprays contain an alcohol-hydrocarbon solvent-propellant system, a synthetic polymeric resin, a base to neutralize the resin if it is a carboxylic acid-containing resin, plasticizer(s), fragrance, and, in some cases, surfactant(s) to improve the spreading characteristics of the polymer. Most of the new low-VOC aerosol hairsprays contain alcohol-water as the solvent system and dimethyl ether as the propellant. Together the alcohol-dimethyl ether content must be below 55% (54.5%). For cost considerations, dimethyl ether is the propellant of choice, although Hydrofluorocarbon 152-A is exempt as a VOC and provides acceptable, but expensive formulations with previously used resins [54]. In Europe and other parts of the world, there are no VOC limits, and hydrocarbon-alcohol systems with virtually no water are widely used. 

Pump sprays are very similar to aerosol sprays and consist of solvent(s), a synthetic polymeric resin, a base to neutralize the resin (for carboxylic acid-containing resins), plasticizer(s), and in some cases a surfactant and a fragrance. For the low-VOC systems, ethanol-water is the solvent. 

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Test salons are often used to evaluate hair fixatives. Half-head studies are performed, with the test product appHed to one side of the head and a control product to the other in reaHstic use amounts. Similar properties as desctibed in laboratory tests are measured. Finished products are often sent to testers homes where they have an opportunity to evaluate the products in real use situations for extended pedods. 

The copolymers are insoluble in water unless they are neutralized to some extent with base. They are soluble, however, in various ratios of alcohol and water, suggesting appHcations where deUvery from hydroalcohoHc solutions (149) but subsequent insolubiUty in water is desired, such as in low volatile organic compound (VOC) hair-fixative formulations or tablet coatings. Unneutralized, their Ts are higher than expected, indicating interchain hydrogen bonding (150). 

Miscellaneous Copolymers. VP has been employed as a termonomer with various acryUc monomer—monomer combinations, especially to afford resins usehil as hair fixatives. Because of major differences in reactivity, VP can be copolymerized with alpha-olefins, but the products are actually PVP grafted with olefin or olefin oligomers (151,152). Likewise styrene can be polymerized in the presence of PVP and the resulting dispersion is unusually stable, suggesting that this added resistance to separation is caused by some grafting of styrene onto PVP (153). The Hterature contains innumerable references to other copolymers but at present (ca 1997), those reviewed in this article are the only ones known to have commercial significance. 

PVP/DMAEMA DES quaternary ISP / GafquatBASF/Luviquat 755N/734PQ11 strongly cationic, substantive, mousse and gel hair fixative ingredients... 

VP/tBMA/MA BASF/Luvidex various hair fixatives... 

PVP/DMA EMA conditioners with strong hold, substantive, lustrous film formers strongly cationic, substantive, hair fixative... 

Miscellaneous Copolymers. VP has been employed as a termonomer with various acrylic monomer—monomer combinations, especially to afford resins useful as hair fixatives. 

PVP / imidazolinum quaternary PVP/styrenea BASF/Luviquat FC ISP/Polectron 430 30% VP gel hair fixative ingredients opacifier for personal care products very... 

Amphomer . [Nat l. Starch Chem.] Octylactyiamide/acrylates/bulylamino-ethyl methacrylate copolymer hair fixative resin for setting lotions, c< -ditioners. 

Aristoflex. [Hoechst Celanese] Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers hair fixative for aerosols, hair sprays, setting lotions, conditioners. 

Delsette. [Hercules] Polyamide resin hair fixative. 

Dow Corning . [Dow Coming Dow Coming France SA] Silicone compds. surfactants, release coatings, andfoaras, lubricants detackifier and plasticizer for hair fixative resins fix urethane foam, personal care ixods., industrial I ocessing. 

Lecein . [Inolex] Collagen derivs. filmforming protein, hair fixative, conditioner, hair spray resin plasticiEer to hair prq ., makeup, skin care prods. 

LuvisetO. (BA BASF AG] Croumic add ctqjidyinets hair fixative, filmforming t ent for hair care prods. 

Litviskol . [BASF AG] PVPorPVP/ VA copolymers film-fbnning agent, hair fixative, diiCkener, protective colloid, suspending agent, dispersant for cosmetics and tech al applies. 

Polyquart . [Henkd/Emeiy/Cosidia Henkel KGaA] Ethoxylated poly-amines antistat soAener, conditioner, hair fixative for personal care prods., hair care prods. 

Resyn . [Natl. Starch Chem.] Viiiyi acetate/crotonic acid ptriymers hair fixative uv absorber fix hair and skin cate prods. 

Ucare Polymer. [Amerchol] Polyqua-temium-10 hair fixative. 

Lexquat . [Imdex] Quaternary ammonium chlorides film former, hair fixative, conditioner, emulsifier, antis tat,... 

Luviflex . [BASF AG] PVP copolymers film-fexmer fw hair fixatives. 

Luviset . [BASF BASF AO] Ciotonic acid copolymm hair fixative, film-forming agent fn hair care prods. 

Reqrn . [Nat l. Starch A Chem.] Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid polymers hair fixative uv absorber fiv hair and skin care prods. 

Stepanhold . [Stqian Stqian Eurqie] PVP copolymers hair fixatives. 

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