Carded Woolen Spinning

Carded woolen spinning is a very flexible spinning method, with which several very different fiber types can be processed. Wool and fine animal hair as well as pure or blended synthetic fibers can be spun. Furthermore, waste from other spinning processes as well as regenerated wool from textile waste can be used, see Fig. 3.27. 

Carded woolen yarns are characterized by a soft, bulky, hairy texture relatively low tenacity and high degree of elongation. The moss-like character of the carded woolen yarns is caused by many fiber ends protruding from the yarn surface, which are not bound into the core of the yarn because of low fiber orientation in the yarn direction. Therefore, fabrics from carded woolen yarns can easily be shagged, tumbled, or felted. Typically, carded woolen yarns are used for knit and woven goods such as loden or flannel, home textiles, or furniture fabrics. 

The processing steps in the fiber preparation are similar to other spinning methods. The mixing and lubrication is followed by carding with a three-card set. 

Carding in wool processing is very similar to carding in cotton processing. The purpose of worsted carding is 

The working principles of the woolen card carding and transfer actions are the same as with the cotton card (Section 3.1.1.4). The most important components of a woolen card are the tambours, the worker-stripper pairs, and the transfer roller or doffer (Fig. 3.28). 

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Figure 3.27 Flow chart for carded woolen spinning method...

Figure 3.30 Carded woolen spinning frame (Kirchenberger, 1986) (1) roving bobbin,...

Woolen spinning is thus a very short sequence compared to worsted processing. Woolen yams are economically uncompetitive with worsted yams even at relatively coarse yam counts, a result of the yams being virtually made on the carding machine, the expense of the much larger card used, the low dehvery speed, and the very low card production in spinning fine yams, resulting from the low deUvery speed. 

With the nonconventional woolen spinning method, which was developed at the Institut fiir Textiltechnik at the RWTH Aachen, Germany, within a research project of the European Union, the slivers are produced on a novel compact card with only one tambour. They have a titer of about 4 ktex. Without additional roving formation, they can be spun directly into a yarn on a nonconventional woolen ring spinning frame or a modified OE-rotor spinning machine. 

The woolen spinning process uses used textiles as the basis materials for the yarn production process. The cleaned and torn textiles are processed up to 100% or in blends with other materials, such as wool, animal hair, man-made fibers, wool, and cotton waste. The quality of the carded wool products with a very high share of reprocessed raw materials is not very high. Articles such as flannels, for example, are made of 100% reprocessed raw materials. Also, the quality of the used textiles is very important. Because used textiles have to be reprocessed into single fibers as... 

Friction spurning is a variation of the open-end spinning system and often referred to as the DREF system. In this system, one or more slivers are fed onto a rapidly rotating card drum which opens the si iver to form single fibers. The separated single fibers are blown from the card dram by a stream of air onto the junction of two parallel perforated drams turning in the same direction. The rotating perforated drams under suction cause the fibers to be compressed and twist around aie another to form a uniform yam which is continuously removed onto a spool. The resultant yarns are bulky and have properties similar to woolen yarns. 

The conventional woolen card incorporates a web sheer at the end that divides the fiber mat into multiple parallel strips depending on the required fineness. These strips are directly fed to a rubber spinning frame that compacts them into rovings and winds them onto bobbins. As with the rubber draw frame used in worsted yarn spinning, the sliver cohesion is caused by false-twisting the fiber strips. 

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