International Perfumer

A Poppl, S. Witt, B. Zimmeemann (Henkel KgaA), Solid Perfumed Deodorant Composition Containing Alu-nite. PCT International Application WO 23, 197 (DE Application 19,548,067, 26 Jun 1997 Chem. Abstr 1997, 127, 70625x. 

Trager, G.C. and Germanton, H. (1997) Coatimundis enrich their own lives in nature by putting on the perfume, so why not let them do it in captivity In V. Hare and K.Worley (Eds.), Proceedings of the Third International Conference on Environmental Enrichment, Sea World, Florida, pp. 150-154. 

Cars and buses are fuelled by a volatile mixture of hydrocarbons. The mixture is called petrol in the UK, and gas (short for gasoline) in the USA. One of the main chemicals in petrol is octane, albeit in several isomeric forms. In the internal combustion engine, the carburettor first vaporizes the petrol to form an aerosol (see Section 10.2) comprising tiny droplets of petrol suspended in air (Figure 8.3). This vaporization process is similar to that which converts liquid perfume into a fine spray. 

A colloid is a broad category of mixtures, and is defined as one phase suspended in another. A perfume spray is made up of a liquid (the perfume) dispersed in a gas (the air). The principle underlying the perfume atomizer is the same as the nozzle on a can of polish, and the jets within the carburettor in the internal combustion engine. In each case, the colloid formed is an aerosol. 

This relation between simplicity and complexity in perfumery may be represented by the diagram in Figure 9.2 which shows that each material not only plays its part in forming the overall character of the perfume (at the outside of the circle) but also contributes to its internal structure and harmony. 

The perfumer should generally beware of assuming that specific odor notes evoke the same associations for the public at large as they do for him or her. This is particularly but not exclusively true for the perfumer in an international fragrance house working on projects for different markets. Consumer research, designed and interpreted with... 

Already the VOC concern is prompting some manufacturers of household products such as air fresheners and window cleaners to change their formulations, thereby creating new challenges with respect to perfume solubility. It is impossible to estimate at this time to what extent in the future this concern will confront the perfumer with additional questions and challenges at the international level. 

The first step in acquiring this knowledge and understanding consists in studying in depth the products that make up the market. The words "in depth" should not be taken lightly. Perfumers must study the minor brands as well as the major ones, the ones developed and produced by local manufacturers as well as the international ones, and develop... 

The uses of vanillin in international perfumery are many. In aldehydic perfumes, vanillin provides the powdery impression given by the background smell, usually up to 2% in the perfume concentrate. In fruity notes, vanillin enhances the various fruity constituents (0.1—0.5% in pears up to 2% in peaches) for instance, a peach note is not fully peach without vanillin. When vanillin is combined with some floral notes, such as heliotrope and orchid, which actually contain strong vanilla impressions, amounts of 2—5% are possible. However, with notes such as rose, orange flower, and jonquil, the addition of 0.1—2% vanillin can bring warmth and elegance. In woody families such as fougiire and chypre, and also in spicy perfumes, the harsh impression also needs the fine, smooth aroma provided by vanillin traces. 

Names like this are fine for familiar compounds that are widely used and referred to by chemists, biologists, doctors, nurses, perfumers alike. But there are over 16 million known organic compounds. They can t all have simple names, and no one would remember them if they did, For this reason, the IUPAC (International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry) have developed systematic nomenclature, a set of rules that allows any compound to be given a unique name that can be deduced directly from its chemical structure. Conversely, a chemical structure can be deduced from its systematic name. 

Close on the heels of IFF is the Unilever group, which developed in the field through acquisitions. After consolidating in 1983 its three perfume and flavor subsidiaries—PPL, Food Industries, and Bertrand Freres—to form PPF International, the group acquired a foothold in the U.S. market in 1984 with Norda. Three years later it merged PPF with Holland s Naarden, which was on the decline. Called Quest International (Unilever) the new company accounts for over 7 percent of the world market in its area. 

D. H. Pybus, The Structure of an International Fragrance Company. In The Chemistry of Fragrances From Perfumer to Consumer, 2nd ed. C. Sell, Ed. The Royal Society of Chemistry Cambridge, 2006 pp 132-137. 

Oil of sassafras is employed as a soap perfume and for tooth pastes. It is also used as a parasiticide, but in this connection it is not without danger, for it has been recorded that a dog treated with the oil for lice died after a week s treatment. When taken internally and absorbed, it exerts a poisonous effect on the liver, kidneys and heart. 

Cosmetics Substances or products primarily for external use or for dental use. They have protective, maintenance, cleansing purposes or function as perfumes. They are intended for use on the hezilthy organism and should not be used internally (IKS). 

See also Carcinogen Classification Schemes Carcinogenesis Fragrances and Perfumes International Fragrance Association (IFFiA) Risk Assessment, Human Health Toxicity Testing, Sensitization. 

The most frequently used commercial mothrepellents in Spain contain p-diclorobenzene (p-DB) or naphthalene (N) as the active component (98-99% w/w), the rest being perfume, approximately 1-2%. These values are generally determined by gas cromatography [1-5]. We propose an alternative analytical method, based on determination of the active components by HPLC in reverse phase, using an isocratic regime, with diphenyl (DP) as an internal standard. The results obtained show good conformity with the certified values of the active components supplied by the manufacturers of the mothrepellents. The modular approximation [6] is proposed for the validation of the method, that includes the validation of each part of the system (pump, injector, etc.). 

WO 2003015736 02/2003 Ness et a/./Quest International Aqueous fabric care composition comprises surfactant, silicone insoluble in water, and perfume having a solubility parameter (SP) not exceeding about 20. By using a perfume with a low SP value, the invention enables good partitioning of perfume into the silicone of the composition, which means that the perfume will be associated with the silicone and deposited onto fabric in use... 

Figure 5.1 General structure of an international fragrance company around the perfume brief (adaptedfrom Curtis and Williams, 1995)...

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