Pomade

The per/umc [Pg.93]

The Aowers of the tuberose PuliMilhet tnbnuea. are oultivutcd lo a oousiderable ertcnl in the South ol France, and are principally used for the tnanufttecure of concretes, pomades, and similar perfume materials. 

JajmiD oil prepared from liie pomade has Ihe following characters —... 

The refined waxes and oils have a wide variety of end uses eg in the manufacture of hand cleaners, hair pomades, milking creams, waxed food cartons, chewing gum, desensitiser in the explosives industry, crayons, candles, printing ink, industrial jellies, water proofing, carbon paper wax, hot melt adhesives, paints, varnishes and many others. 

Extracts of fragrance and flavor substances obtained from plants are termed pomades, concretes, absolutes, resinoids, or tinctures according to their method of preparation. 

Pomades consist of fats that contain fragrance substances and are produced by the hot or cold enfleurage of flowers. Hot enfleurage is the oldest known procedure for preserving plant fragrance substances. In this method, flowers (or other parts of a plant) are directly immersed in liquid or molten wax. 

Concretes are prepared by extracting fresh plant material with nonpolar solvents (e.g., toluene, hexane, petroleum ether). On evaporation, the resulting residue contains not only volatile fragrance materials, but also a large proportion of nonvolatile substances including waxy compounds. For this reason, concretes (like pomades) are not completely soluble in alcohol and, thus, find limited use as perfume ingredients. However, they can be employed in the scenting of soaps. 

PERFUMERY, continuee7. animal substances, 061, attar of rose, 60S. baim, 664, balsams, 668. boar grease. 663. hen, 667 ber gamot, 667, bouquet pomades, 673, brazil-Wood. 064. eaiamils, 660, caramel 068,... 

Suet and lard form the body of pomades and that the quality of these latter maybe unexceptionable, the fat material must be perfectly flush, inodorous, and pure. The rendered suet being almost always more or loss deficient in those respects, it must, therefore, be subjected to a purifying process, in order to fit it for use in perfumery. This is done by melting the fat by the heat of a saline ot steam bath, in an enamelled iron vessel, and adding to it, gradually, powdered alum and chloride of sodium, in the proportion of one ounce of the former, and two ounces of the latter, to every fifty pounds of fat undsr treatment. 

Both lard and suet are used as body for pomades the former constituting soft body for winter climates, and the latter hard body for summer temperatures. 

Palm.—The palm fruit, avoir a elais, on being boiled with water, sends to the surface a bntyraceous orange-colored fat of a violet-like odor. It is met with chiefly in admixture with tallow to make fine palm soap, and in small quantities for coloring pomades. The odor of the oil may be extracted by infusion in alcohol. 

In this manner the finer sorts of French pomade are prepared. Sometimes oil of hen takes the place of snet as the infusion medium, and then the products have the name of huile antique. 

After the last impregnation, and when the fat is sufficiently fragrant, the pomade is removed with a spatula, and put into close cans. 

Pomades.—The fine> and extra fine or double pomades arc made by the processes of maceration and enfleurage, which have been already described at page 671. The... 

The pomade or oil, after treatment, still retains some odor, and is, therefore, valuable material for the stick and common pomades, or as fat stoek for new treatment with freBh flowers. 

Carmine Rouge.—Finely bolted talc, four ounces carmine, two drachms. Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragaeantli. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be increased. For commoner pastes, roso pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter- It may be made into a pomade. 

Enfieurage. This is an ancient process for capturing aromafic essential oils from flowers, such as jasmine and tuberose. In this now essentially obsolete process, freshly gathered flower petals are carefully spread on a sheet, usually glass, upon which is spread a very thin film of highly purified fat. The petals remain in contact with the fat film for 24 hours, after which the peials are removed and replaced with a fresh batch. The process requires from 30 to 40 repetitions before the fat becomes saturated with the essential oil. The fat at this point is called pomade, which is extracted with pure alcohol. Prior to the availability of more advanced technology, some essence manufacturers would have as many as a thousand petal frames in operation at one time. 

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