Orris oil

The commercial product, as put on to the market, was originally a 10 per cent, solution of ionone in alcohol. This was due not only to the expensive nature of the product, but also to the fact that its odour is very intense, and when pure, not like that of violets. Ten grams of this solution are sufficient to produce 1 kilo of triple extract of violets when diluted with pure spirit. But to-day 100 per cent, violet perfumes, such as the violettone, above mentioned, are regular commercial articles. The perfume is improved both lor extracts and soaps by the addition of a little orris oil, but in the author s opinion the odour of ionone is not nearly so delicate as that of the natural violet, although far more powerful. 

The principal thing in connection with the employment of ionone is to discover its proper degree of dilution. In its natural state the body is so highly concentrated as scarcely to remind one of violets. This is the reason why it was placed in trade in the form of a 10 per cent, solution, and not in its pure state. This form has proved an exceedingly useful one. In using it for extracts, powders, sachets, etc., the solution must be further diluted and fixed with some orris oil, civet, and musk. ... 

Because of its high content of myristic and other fatty acids, the steam distillate is a waxy mass that resembles a concrete and is sold under this name or as Beurre d lris (Orris butter). In addition, a neutral product, obtained after removal of the acids with alkali, is marketed under the name orris oil absolute or as orris oil 10-fold. 

Irone, 6-Methylionone. OuH J( > mol wt 206.32. C 81.50%, H 10.75%, O 7.76%. The fragrant principle of violets, best isolated from the rhizomes of iris or from orris oil F. Tiemann, P. Kruger. Ber. 26, 2675 (1893) Ruzicka et al, Helv. Chim. Acta 16, ll43 (1933) Naves, Mazuyer. Les Parfums Naturels (Paris, 1939). Irone, as isolated, is an isomeric mixture of o P and y-i rones, q.v, with each having the same molecular formula. Synthesis of isomeric mixture Eschinazi, U.S. pat. 3,019,265 (1962 to Givaudan). 

Use Orris oil is one of the most valuable natural products. It is thus used only in minute doses, e. g., in high quality perfumes or to improve the aromatic character of luxury foods such as liquors, confectionery, and bakery products. 

Concrete orris oil, a waxy substance obtained by steam distillation of Morentine orris root. 

Commercially, the aspect of orris oil is very important. Its unique delicate odour will prevent it from being replaced by the more intense but less delicate odour of ionone, and further, it forms an excellent fixer for this artificial perfume, so that a judicious mixture of orris oil and ionone leaves little to be desired. Its employment in fine perfumery is, and has been for many years, very extensive. A quite liquid oil, from which the inodorous solid constituents have been removed, is now on the market. According to Stead it has a specific gravity 0-949, optical rotation - 28 , and congeals at - 5 C. Schimmel Co., however, have shown that its characters are, normally, as follows —... 

Orris oil Iris pallida Fermented rhizome SD cis-y-imne., cw-a-irone... 

G.i Iris Absolut/Ol E absolue/essence d iris The rhizomes (subterranean stems) of the - orris flower are the starting material for the most expensive - fragrance and - flavor raw material. After harvesting, the rhizomes have to be washed, decorticated and stored for three years fresh material is practically odorless. The material is then pulverized and steam-distilled with an extremely low yield (<0.1%). The resulting - essential oil solidifies in the receiver to a wax-like, cream-colored mass, which explains why this product is frequently termed orris concrete or orris butter. This phenomenon is due to the high content (85-90%) of - myristic acid, which is removed by alkaline washing of the orris oil in ether solution to yield orris absolute. 

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