Shea butter

Lipids are easily detected in negative ion mode on account of the peaks of deprotonated stearic, palmitic and arachidic acids. In positive ion mode, mono- and diacylglycerol are also detected. All these lipids show the same distribution all over the sample. An interesting point is the predominance of stearic acid. This could be consistent with the use of shea butter or karite in the recipe of the patina, products commonly used in West Africa. 

Dammaradienol 81 Dammar resin Shea butter Theaceae 0.8 [37,59] ... 

Water, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) fruit, glyceryl stearate, glycerin, ethoxydiglycol, squalane, cyclomethicone, avena sat-iva (oat), kernel oil, batyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, dimethiconol, methylparaben, propylparaben, retinol, tocopheryl acetate and triethanol amine. 

Water, uriage thermal spring water, paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil), butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) fruit, polysorbate 60, glycerine, sorbitan stearate, hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl palm-itate, glyceryl stearate, PEG 100 stearate, phenoxyethanol,... 

Much of the sterol component of shea butter is present as esters of cinnamic acid, which are less readily saponified than esters with glycerol (Peers, 1977) published data for this fat might therefore underestimate the hue value. Surprisingly measurement of cinnamic acid has not been used to test for the presence of shea butter in mixtures. Triterpene alcohols similar to those found in shea also occur in sal fat. Homberg and Bielefeld (1982) showed the presence of triterpene alcohols in illipe and sal fats and in commercial CBEs, and their analysis was proposed as a qualitative measure to detect cocoa butter adulteration. 

Reaction of shea triterpene alcohols with acetic anhydride and sulphuric acid to produce coloured products (Fitelson s reaction) was the basis of a sensitive early test for the presence of shea butter in cocoa butter (Fincke, 1975). Analysis of the triterpene fraction of a commercial cocoa butter by TLC fractionation followed by GC (Fincke, 1976), or argentation TLC followed by GC (Gegiou and Staphylakis, 1985), have been shown to have potential for detecting CBEs in chocolate based on the difference in levels of P-amyrin, butyrospermol and... 

The quantitative determination of sterenes has been used to detect added CBEs or refining in cocoa butter and to establish the presence of CBAs in retail chocolates (Crews et al., 1997). The high quantity of triterpene alcohols in shea butters means that dehydration products of these sterols are formed in detectable levels when shea is bleached. These triterpene sterenes, which have not be characterized, can be detected in the stearin fraction used in CBEs (Crews etal., 1999). 

Artaud, J., Dencausse, L., Ntsourankoua, H. and Clamou, J.L. (1995) Comparison of the lipids content of pentadesma and shea butters. Oleagineux Corps Gras Lipides, 2(2), 143-147. 

Derbesy, M. and Richert, M.T. (1979) Detection of shea butter cocoa butter. Oleagineux, 34, 405 109. 

Vegetable Butters Most fats/oils derived from vegetable sources are liquid, reflecting the unsaturated nature of most of their component acids. The few that are sohd (i.e., have melting points above ambient temperature) are known as butters. The best-known and most important member of this class is cocoa butter (Section 5.2), which is the major or only, fat component in chocolate. Others discussed in Section 6 include iUipe butter (Borneo tallow), kokum butter, mango kernel fat, sal fat, and shea butter. These along with palm oil are, in some countries, permitted replacements, in part, for cocoa butter in chocolate (20, 21). 

Borneo tallow Sfiorea stenoptera). This solid fat, also known as iUipe butter, contains palmitic (18%), stearic (46%), and oleic acid (35%). It is one of six permitted fats (palm oil, Ulipe butter, kokum butter, sal fat, shea butter, and mango kernel fat), which, in some countries at least, can partially replace cocoa butter in chocolate (86, 87). 

Sal fat (Shorea robusta). This tree, which grows in Northern India, is felled for timber. Its seed oil is rich in stearic acid, and it can be used as a cocoa butter equivalent (CBE). The major acids are palmitic (2-8%), stearic (35 8%), oleic (35 2%), linoleic (2-3%), and arachidic acid (6-11%). Its major triacylglycerols are of the SUS type required of a cocoa butter equivalent. Sal olein is an excellent emolhent, and sal stearin, with POP 1%, POSt 13%, and StOSt 60%, is a superior cocoa butter equivalent (122-124). It is one of the six permitted fats (palm oil, iUipe butter, kokum butter, sal fat, shea butter, and mango kernel fat), which, in some countries at least, can partially replace cocoa butter in chocolate (86). 

Sterol Coconut Corn Cotton Seed Linseed Olive Pam Palm Kernel Peanut Rape Seed Rice Bran Saf- flower Sesame Shea Butter Soy Bean Sun flower Wheat Germ... 

The typical properties assigned to cosmetic products include skin moisturization, emolhency and spreadability and coadjuvants to help maintain skin pliability and softness (57). Moisturization is usually considered to be simply occlusivity and humectancy. The role of cosmetics, especially lipid cosmetics besides moisturization, has expanded to multiple effects such as modulation of barrier function, increasing comeodesmolysis and facilitating comeocyte envelope maturation. Specific examples of lipids of interest are listed in Table 2. Examples of lipids used in cosmetics include products derived from olive oil, shea butter oil, mango kernel oil, borage oil, nut oils, and palm and coconut oils. 

Shea butter Solid triacylglycerol Emollient, absorbs UV light, skin and body care. 

---