Perfumes castoreum

The classical scent of the sea is afforded by ambergris, which is also the best fixative for perfumes. Once secured from whales, ambergris can now be legally provided by chemical synthesis (Science whaling 2000). Other fixatives are obtained from land animals, such as castoreum, civet, and musk. The first one is a phenolic substance and the latter two macrocyclic ketones that have stimulated the earfy methodologies for the synthesis of macrocyclic conqjoimds... 

Castoreum p-methoxyphaiol, p-ethylphaiol, acetophencme, and l -benzenediol/armnatics and d radation products oily cream found in the sac of beavers Castor spp., Mamm. /fixative in all perfiunes, particularly leather, amber, and re perfumes Magie Noire (LancSme), Em ude (Coty), and Arpfege (Lanvin)... 

Castoreum is of particular importance in Shalimar, forming the basis of the leather aspect of the perfume, which may be further developed by the use of a leather base, such as a classic Cuir de Russie. The same idea was used by Guerlain in Mitsouko, one of the earliest of the chypre perfumes to contain also a fruity note based on aldehyde C14 (undecalactone). Cinnamon bark oil, which forms part of the spicy aspect of the perfume, fits in perfectly with the leather. Other spices that work well are coriander, nutmeg, and clove. 

Otherwise, in general construction the perfume follows closely that of a classical oriental, with citrus oils (making up some 25%), lavender, sandalwood, patchouli, vanillin, coumarin, castoreum, and rose. The general sweetness of the perfume is further enhanced by the choice of musk materials, Galaxolide (5%), Tonalid, ethylene brassylate, and musk ketone, as well as by the use of Cashmeran, an intensely sweet fruity musk material associated with the synthesis of Galaxolide. 

The ability of Hedione to combine successfully with many of the most important perfumery materials has been one of the major influences in perfumery over the past 30 years. Nowhere is this better seen than in a group of perfumes based on its relationship with patchouli. Although sometimes classified as chypres, the dominance of floral notes and patchouli, and the comparative lack of musk and animalic notes, other than castoreum, justifies the placing of them in a separate group. 

Other aspects of the perfume are its balsamic notes such as benzoin which, with castoreum and a costus note (the natural product can no longer be used), combine with the isobutyl quinoline to give the leather character. As we have seen before, spices such as cinnamon and clove work well with leather notes, and these are again present, backed up by a carnation accord of eugenol, heliotropin, and vanillin. 

The requirement to avoid natural musk and ambergris places little or no strain upon current perfumery practice. Castoreum plays a minor role in perfumes for skin care products and toiletries and can easily be avoided. Whether the production of civet involves maltreatment of civet cats is a matter of debate. If it must be avoided, good synthetic substitutes are available. 

Castoreum or caster is a strongly scented creamy fluid derived from the genitals of male beavers. This name is also applied to similar materials taken from otters and muskrats. These fluids are used by the animals to mark their territories and to attract females. They are reputed to have the same effects on other species, notably humans, when incorporated into perfumes or creams. Castoreum perfume is produced by placing the entire gland into alcohol. 

C.jHjjNOj, Mr 249.35, mp. 64.5-65.6 C, [a]g -80 (CHCI3). Castor fiber), which is of importance for the perfume industry. The animals use the glands for territorial marking. Apart from alkaloids like C. the castoreum contains phenolic compounds that influence the behavior of the animals C. itself does not appear to play a role. ... 

Lederer, E. 1949. Castoreum and ambergris chemical and biochemical constituents. Perfum. Essent. Oil Res., 40, 353-359. 

Ambergris is a waxy and flammable substance that is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Initially, it has a marine odor. With time, as it ages, it becomes sweeter, related to the fragrance of rubbing alcohol. Castoreum is the exudate from the castor sacs of the beaver. It is used in perfumes and as a food additive. 

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