Pattern construction measurements

O Brien, R. and W. C. Shelton (1941). Women s measurements for garment and pattern construction. Washington, DC, United States Government Printing Office. 

The process of pattern construction for apparel design and production is complex and diverse. The traditions of pattemmaking have evolved over the centuries, since the invention of the tape measure in the late eighteenth century allowed for a systematic approach to pattern-cutting methods and enabled garments to be mass produced (Breward, 2001). 

Measurement data can be derived from a range of sources (Table 8.1), that is published measurement standards, anthropometric surveys (2D measurements or 3D data sets), brand or label size preferences or individual measurements. Such data can be viewed as a quantitative element to the pattern construction process. Measurement is a necessary input in creating a block, pattern or approved template according to the preferred constmction method. 

Pig. 14.5 Illustrations of miscibility assessment using powder X-ray diffractometry (pXRD) data I. comparison of linear combination of drug and polymer pXRD patterns with measured pattern of ASD, II. comparison of pure component pXRD pattern extracted from multivariate curve resolution of ASD patterns with the measured patterns of pure components, and III. comparison of linear combination of dmg and polymer pairwise distribution function PDF) patterns with the PDF pattern derived from the measured pXRD data of ASD (residual plot with standard deviation is shown in inset). (Schemes are constructed based on Bates 2011 Ivanisevic et al. 2009 Moore and WUdfong 2011)... 

Nondestructive NAA can thus be used for the detection and measurement of Ba, Sb (and also Cu) from residue samples collected from the floor surface after the single firing of a handgun. By constructing a unique distribution pattern of these residues, it is possible to establish the flight path of the bullet and the proximity of the gun with respect to the target. The development of this information, particularly in the absence of a firearm, a bullet or an eyewitness, can be of considerable value in criminal investigations... 

The tire constmction influences both cornering and longitudinal slip stiffness. These include the tire carcass, breaker construction, inflation pressure, and tread pattern design. However, since the two stiffness components can be measured, knowledge of the construction details is not necessary. The vehicle geometry influences the tire wear through the air resistance, which it creates, and through the load distribution between front and rear axles. 

The eigenvectors extracted from the cross-product matrices or the singular vectors derived from the data matrix play an important role in multivariate data analysis. They account for a maximum of the variance in the data and they can be likened to the principal axes (of inertia) through the patterns of points that represent the rows and columns of the data matrix [10]. These have been called latent variables [9], i.e. variables that are hidden in the data and whose linear combinations account for the manifest variables that have been observed in order to construct the data matrix. The meaning of latent variables is explained in detail in Chapters 31 and 32 on the analysis of measurement tables and contingency tables. 

In the case when one of the two measurements of the contingency table is divided in ordered categories, one can construct a so-called thermometer plot. On this plot we represent the ordered measurement along the horizontal axis and the scores of the dominant latent vectors along the vertical axis. The solid line in Fig. 32.9 displays the prominent features of the first latent vector which, in the context of our illustration, is called the women/men factor. It clearly indicates a sustained progress of the share of women doctorates from 1966 onwards. The dashed line corresponds with the second latent vector which can be labelled as the chemistry/ other fields factor. This line shows initially a decline of the share of chemistry and a slow but steady recovery from 1973 onwards. The successive decline and rise are responsible for the horseshoe-like appearance of the pattern of points representing... 

In either construction, each element of the APH can be assigned a unique turn (/)10 and angular step ( -n) along the helical pathway, measured from the s-block origin that forms the natural spine of the spiral pattern (the heavy vertical line in Fig. B.3). For example, the element chromium (Cr) can be denoted as the t5/d4 element, to locate it at the d4 angular step (the fourth element of the d block) on the t5 tier of the helix. In this manner, the distinctive form, topology, and orientation of the APH effectively complement... 

The XRD pattern of a powdered sample is measured with a stationary X-ray source (usually Cu Ka) and a movable detector, which scans the intensity of the diffracted radiation as a function of the angle 2 6 between the incoming and the diffracted beams. When working with powdered samples, an image of diffraction lines occurs because a small fraction of the powder particles will be oriented such that by chance a certain crystal plane is at the right angle 6 with the incident beam for constructive interference (see Fig. 6.1). 

This approach may also be applied to racemic bilayers built up from homo-chiral Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers. By measuring the two-dimensional diffraction pattern from such a bilayer it is possible to deduce the molecular chirality of each of the two monolayers in the order they were inserted to construct the bilayer. This approach can be extended to multilayers. Thus, in principle, we close the circle started in Section IV-G-1. It is possible to assign the absolute configuration of chiral molecules in centrosymmetric crystals provided that one can construct the crystal (in this case the multilayer) by adding homochiral layers one by one. 

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