Stitch types

The machine bed usually offers only one stitch type with the exemption being a combination stitch machine for which more than one stitch type is produced on the same machine. An example of this would be a five-thread overlock machine with overlocking stitch number 504 and one row of chainstitch number 401. These will be... 

Many types of seams can be constmcted in ways involving different raw materials, stitch types and machinery. An optimum combination of these, along with minimised thread consumption, will provide an economical approach to manufacturing. 

Before the stitch types used on sportswear are discussed, it is important to understand the different categories and classifications into which all stitches fall. These are classified as ... 

Each number denotes a sequence of stitches within that class. For example, aU lockstitch formations are contained within the class of 300. Therefore, stitch types 301, 302, 303 and so on are all single-needle lockstitches. The primary stitches for sewing sportswear fabrics are described as follows. 

This stitch formation has a row of stitch type 504 plus and extra row of stitch type 401 as described above. This stitch is produced on one machine and has a dual role of providing neatness on the edge with the 504 stitch whilst at the same time providing great strength to the seam with the two-thread chainstitch 401. An example of this stitch and its appearance on the seam is given in Figure 6.29. 

A variety of stitch types can be disassembled using this technology. Stitched joints snch as 301 lockstitch require the microwave-triggered thread to be present only in one section of the stitch stfucture. This means only the upper bobbin thread or upper needle thread needs to be made from the miCTowave-triggered thread to enable disassembly (Figure 7.3). 

The strength of the seam should be equal to that of the material it joins in order to have a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered during use (Nayak et al., 2010). The transverse strength of a seam is determined by a number of factors, such as stitch type, stitch density, thread strength, thread tension, needle size, and needle type. It will be observed that the seam failure in a garment can occur because of ... 

A sewing stitch may be formed without any material, inside a material, through a material and on a material. All stitch types are formed by a needle penetrating into a fabric while transporting a sewing thread. It is essential to understand how the unique characteristics of every stitch type are dependent upon the mechanical actions of the sewing machine and fabric type, which determines the stitch properties. 

The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107 and 108. One of the simplest of all chain stitch types is 101, which is formed from a single thread. It is used for basting operations in manufacturing garment because it can be easily removed (in positions such as edges, flaps, collars, and so on, it is a temporary stitch). Figure 10.5 shows stitch type 101. 

Hand stitch type 209 (Figure 10.8) is formed with one thread. It is a machine-made version of traditional hand stitching, sometimes referred to as a saddle stitch. 

The most common stitch types in this class are type 401, 402, 404, 406 and 407. Type 401, or the two-thread chain stitch, has the appearance of a lockstitch in the top but has a double-chain effect formed by a looper thread on the underside. The chain generally lies on the under surface of the material, with the needle thread being drawn through to balance the stitch. The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such as setting sleeves and attaching elastic materials. Stitch type 401 is shown in Figure 10.13. 

Stitch type 406 is formed with two, three or more needles. The needle from the lower end moves up and the looper starts moving to the left. It is on the needles that loops are formed into which the looper gets carrying the lower thread. Needles come into the lower end and go through the triangle that is formed between the top of the looper, the previous needle loop and the looper loop. 

Stitch types 512 and 514 are also called mock-safety stitches. These are four-thread over-edge stitches that are formed with two needle threads and two looper threads. Type 514 is stronger and more elastic than 512, but both may be used for seaming knits and wovens (Figure 10.16). 

Types 515, 516 and 519 are a combination of an over-edge stitch and a 401 chain stitch. This type is called a safety stitch (the chain stitch closest to the seam is backed by a row of another tight over-edge stitches), and is used in manufacturing shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans. Figure 10.17 shows stitch types 515 and 516. 

Cover stitches 602 and 605 are very strong and elastic stitches. Stitch type 602 is formed with four threads (two needle threads, one looper thread and one topcovering thread) and used for covering stitch or seaming knit. Class 605 is a similar stitch but formed with three needle threads, one looper thread and one top-covering thread. This class is used for covering stitches or butt-seams. Figure 10.19 shows stitch types 602 and 605. 

The most comphcated stitch type in this class is type 606, known as flat lock, which can be used to join fabrics that are butted together in what used to be called a flat seam. Type 606 is used on knitted fabrics, especially underwear fabrics. 

The flat-seaming stitch type 607 with nine threads (four needle threads, four looper threads and one top-covering thread) is used for trims and seams simultaneously, producing the flat, butted seams as on infant panties, men s briefs and other knitted garments (Figure 10.20). 

A combination of stitch types is often used in the production of a garment. They are formed simultaneously in one operation as two or more rows of stitch classes, denoted by using the two individual stitch type designations, for example 401.504. 

Figures 10.21—10.27 show the stitch types on different garments, such as blazer, suit, shirt, dress, boilersuit, sport jacket and underwear.

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