Stitches classes

The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107 and 108. One of the simplest of all chain stitch types is 101, which is formed from a single thread. It is used for basting operations in manufacturing garment because it can be easily removed (in positions such as edges, flaps, collars, and so on, it is a temporary stitch). Figure 10.5 shows stitch type 101. 

A combination of stitch types is often used in the production of a garment. They are formed simultaneously in one operation as two or more rows of stitch classes, denoted by using the two individual stitch type designations, for example 401.504. 

Each number denotes a sequence of stitches within that class. For example, aU lockstitch formations are contained within the class of 300. Therefore, stitch types 301, 302, 303 and so on are all single-needle lockstitches. The primary stitches for sewing sportswear fabrics are described as follows. 

Of the available textile reinforcements (woven, braided, knitted, stitched), many can now be considered to be mature applications. For example, non-crimp fabric (carbon fibre) is used to manufacture the A380 rear pressure bulkhead at 240kg, in mass, 6.2m long, 5.5m wide, and 1.6m deep, this can be classed as a large structure at a smaller length scale, braided carbon fibres are now used regularly for high performance bicycle frames. 

The third class of olefin methathesis in Scheme 21.1 is addition metathesis polymerization (ADMET). This reaction is an alternative method to stitch together olefins into polymers, in this case by a combination of dienes with extrusion of ethylene. Control of molecular weight by the ADMET process is less precise than that by ROMP, but this reaction has been used to make polymers with precise architectures, such as polymers that would be perfectly alternating ethylene-propylene copolymers. ... 

The lockstitch class 300 is the most commonly used, as a complete garment can be sewn on a lockstitch machine. These stitches are formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an under-thread supplied from a bobbin on the other side. 

Stitches in this class are sometimes referred to as double-locked stitches, because the needle thread is interconnected with two loops of the under-thread. Applications of multi-thread chain stitches are seaming operations on all types of garments. 

The most common stitch types in this class are type 401, 402, 404, 406 and 407. Type 401, or the two-thread chain stitch, has the appearance of a lockstitch in the top but has a double-chain effect formed by a looper thread on the underside. The chain generally lies on the under surface of the material, with the needle thread being drawn through to balance the stitch. The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such as setting sleeves and attaching elastic materials. Stitch type 401 is shown in Figure 10.13. 

Cover stitches 602 and 605 are very strong and elastic stitches. Stitch type 602 is formed with four threads (two needle threads, one looper thread and one topcovering thread) and used for covering stitch or seaming knit. Class 605 is a similar stitch but formed with three needle threads, one looper thread and one top-covering thread. This class is used for covering stitches or butt-seams. Figure 10.19 shows stitch types 602 and 605. 

The most comphcated stitch type in this class is type 606, known as flat lock, which can be used to join fabrics that are butted together in what used to be called a flat seam. Type 606 is used on knitted fabrics, especially underwear fabrics. 

Seam SSb (for finishing belt ends and attaching elastic to waistline), seam SSc (for ends of waistbands on jeans), seam SSd (for seaming (but not widely used)) and seam SSe (for collars or cuffs seamed and topstitched) are two phed seam with one edge folded, which uses Class 100, Class 300, or Class 400 stitches. 

This class of seam requires that the phes of material are lapped and seamed with one or more rows of stitches. A lapped seam is a seam formed by lapping two pieces of material commonly used in joining garment parts such as yoke, gusset and other garment parts (Figure 10.29). 

The most common lapped seams are LSb and LSc overlap seams of two plies at the edges using Class 100, Class 300 or Class 400 stitches. LSb is used for attaching curtains and to attach the waistband of men s dress slacks and LSc for side-seams of dresses, shirts and jeans. Long seams on garments such as jeans and shirts... 

This class of seam is formed by sewing the abutted edges of material together in such a manner that the stitches extend across and cover or tend to cover the edges... 

This class of seam requires a series of stitches to be embodied in a material either in a straight line, a curve or following a design, for ornamental purposes. For example, OSa is used for decorative stitching on jeans pockets (Figure 10.33), OSb for decorative... 

According to the ISO 4916 or BS 3870 standards, seams are divided into eight classes (1—8). Each stitched seam is designated numerically by five digits, with the following configuration ... 

Class 7 — Edge-stitched seam, produced with a minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow component is limited on both ends. Figure 10.41 shows Class 7 seams. 

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