Notes, perfume mixtures

Due to the sensitising chemicals they contain, flavours and spices have been a concern, but there are few reports of contact sensitivity to such compounds among bakers. Cinnamon has been noted as a cause of hand eczema among bakers in several case reports (Malten 1979 Dooms-Goossens et al. 1990 Nixon 1995). The patients were patch tested with cinnamon powder. Nixon s patient reacted to balsam of Peru, the perfume mixture, cinnamic alcohol and cinnamic aldehyde. Cardamom has also been described as a contact allergen (Mobacken and Fregert 1975)- Positive patch tests were seen to cardamom powder, 50% cardamom powder in petrolatum, oil of cardamom, delta-carene, dipentene and oil of bergamot. 

In detergent perfumes, the stabiUty of vanillin is not always certain. It depends on the association made with other raw materials, eg, with patchouli, frankincense, cloves, most of the animal notes, and such chemicals as amyl saUcylate, methyl ionones, heflotropin, gamma undecalactone, linalool, methyl anthrarulate, benzyl acetate, phenyl ethyl alcohol, cedar wood derivatives, oak mosses, coumarin, benzoin. Pern balsam, and cistus derivatives. In some cases, these mixtures can cause discoloration effects. 

Perfumes are complex mixtures of substances having dissimilar chemical properties. Considering one of the most important properties, from the perfumer viewpoint, the volatility, there are a large range of materials, classified into three classes Top notes or initial fragrance impression, body notes or middle... 

Consider a quaternary liquid mixture, neroli oil, geraniol, citronellol and solvent, having different volatilities. Neroli oil represents a top note, citronellol and geraniol are body notes. The solvent is ethanol diluted with water to the required concentration. Let us consider this mixture as a base perfume to which musk ketone (4-tert-butyl-2,6-dimethyl-3,5-dinitroacetophenone) is added as an end note or fixative. 

Origanum oils are used in perfume compositions for herbal-spicy, leathery notes and in seasoning mixtures. FCT 1974 (12) p.945 [8007-11-2], [90131-59-2]. 

It is important when beginning work on a floral base to start with as simple a formula as possible, containing only sufficient materials to establish the essential character of the note. This basic accord can later be embellished by the addition of modifying materials and naturals. The most effective floral bases, particularly when designed to be used as a major part of a perfume formula, are often comparatively simple mixtures containing no more than 15, and often fewer materials. More complicated bases, when used in this way or in combination with other florals, may often be the cause of "muddiness" and general lack of impact in the final product. 

Apart from the materials already mentioned the top note contains a simple mixture of bergamot and orange. The middle note is dominated by a traditional jasmin base, with muguet (hydroxycitronellal 10%), and rose. At the heart of the perfume is the classical chypre accord between vetiveryl acetate (10%), methyl ionone, oakmoss, aldehyde C14, coumarin, sandalwood, patchouli, musk ketone, and amber. The amber note can be reproduced by the simple but effective combination of labdanum, olibanum, and vanilla. Small amounts of other animalic notes such as civet may also be used. 

Incense, Oil, Balsam (Salve), Dry Burning, Wet Burning, Sacrificial, Talismatic, Emblems, Sachet Mixtures, Sleep Pillows, Dry Use, Alchemy (note alchemy is not just the working of metals). Garden Magic, Aromatics, Perfume, Flowers, Fire Worship, Psychic Correspondence, Woodbase, Wood, Potion (Philtre), Bath, Dyes, Gandies, Divination. 

Origanum oils are used in perfume compositions for herbal-spicy, leathery notes and in seasoning mixtures. 

Use In the perfume industry (modem Eaux de Toilette, masculine notes) in the production of spice mixtures to improve the aromatic character of foods, and in medical carminatives. 

In this context, Hedione , a mixture of methyl cis- and trans- dihydro-jasmonates, deserves attention, since it imparts the perfume with a floral, jasmine-like, transparent but nevertheless warm character. This fresh floral note embodies the creation of a new category of scents, that of Eaux fraiches ( fresh waters ). 

Perfumes are usually mixtures of notes, fragrances with similar aromas but different volatilities (the ease with which a substemce is converted into a gas). The most volatile is called the top note. It s what you initially smell. The middle note is the most noticeable smell, while the end note fragrances are responsible for the lingering odor of the perfume. Figure 17-5 shows the chemical structure of several of the fragrances commonly used in perfumes. 

More than that. All perfumes are mixtures of chemicals, and are normally analyzed in terms of three components called notes , as an analogy with the notes that make up a musical harmony. 

Perfumes are mixtures of molecules, generally with molecular mass below 300, of varying volatilities. Their top note is made of volatile substances with instant impact. Once this disappears, the middle note is longer lived, while the base note which may linger for days or weeks, and may make up 50% of the perfume, are deep odors that may not be smelt for some time. The fixative is a molecule with a deep odor that has a low volatility and which helps to reduce evaporation of the more... 

Epoxidation of linalool occurs at the more substituted double bond. Ring closure of this epoxide gives a mixture of the cis [5989-33-3] and trans [34995-77-2] isomers of the furan (131), and also the cis and trans isomers of the pyran (133) [14049-11-7] as shown in Fig. 8.27. This mixture is known as linalool oxide, and sometimes erroneously as epox-ylinalool or epoxydihydrolinalool. Linalool oxide has a sweet woody, floral powerful, sweet, and penetrating odor with earthy undertones. It is used in perfumes and in essential oil reconstitutions in which it adds a natural note to linalool. 

A perfume oil compatible with the mixture, capable of imparting a woody, a floral, a clean fresh, a musk, or a dtrusy note to the bleach or sterilizing composition. 

Any Schiff s base formation in a perfume itself is brought about by the deliberate inclusion of methyl anthranilate in the mixture. Work published almost 50 years ago by Wells [13] reviews some interesting Schiff s compounds of use to the perfumer. For the chemist, it is important to note that the formation of a Schiff s base can be quite slow and the compounds can be highly colored. Perfume oils delivered to a detergent manufacturer will be stable and matured, such that the consequences of the reactions reviewed in this section should be somewhat academic. However, autooxidation reactions such as... 

The term f is used to describe a mixture of single synthetic chemicals, - essential oils, absolutes, - resinoids and other extraction products finm natural sources. Such mixtures are then incorporated in all kinds of cosmetic and household products, such as - soaps, - detergents, air fresheners, toiletries and shampoos, or they are diluted with alcohol and water to become ->perfumes. What raw materials are combined in which proportion depends on the base in which f are going to be useti the desired odor, persistence and the cost of the finished product. Originally entirely composed of natural raw materials, f. today are always mixtures of synthetic and natural raw materials. Apart from economic reasons, such as constant and generally lower prices, constant quality, almost imlimited supplies and more predictable stability, synthetic raw materials allow the creation of novel notes and provide, if they are captive/patented developments, a competitive advantage for a particular f - supplier. 

---