Maximum wave height

Kirkbride (K17), 1934 Flow of water and 4 oils outside tubes, JVro = 0.04-2000. Film thicknesses (maximum wave heights) measured by micrometer. Wavy flow is described, and corrections to Nusselt theory derived for heat transfer in laminar wavy film flow. 

Significant accomplishments demonstrated during the 4-month at-sea operation were (a) The system performed well with a maximum wave height of 4 m, maximum subsurface currents of 3 knots, wind gusts up to 45 knots, and ship roll angle of 18°. (b) The heat exchanger cycle operated in close accord with predicted performance. 

During 1995 1996 the establishment of the short wave station wave observation in Dapan shallow (He, 2004), through analysis, the sea wave direction is ESE, the frequency was 34.26%, secondary wave direction is SE, frequency 14.67%. Strong wave direction is SE, the maximum wave height during the period of observation was 2.7 m, appeared in August 6, 1996, corresponding to the Hyi is 2.5 m. 

Maximum wave height In any wave record, there will also be a... 

Significant oscillations of a water body (seiches) can be excited by tsunamis. When the frequency of the incoming tsunami matches one of the local oscillation modes, resonant amplification leading to large motions of the water may occur. Oscillations of a water body also arise from the continuous application of an excitation either to the water column at an entrance or over the water surface. The maximum wave height can therefore often be observed not at the arrival of the first wave but after several waves. To evaluate the... 

One difficulty in studying extreme wave events is the verification of theory. Statistical theories are evaluated under the assmnptions of stationarity however, the real seas change states both spatially and temporally. Therefore, statistical theories are difficult to verify. In addition, freak wave prediction requires us to predict the maximum wave height distribution. However, although study of the maximum wave height distribution is necessary to verify a theory for freak wave... 

The maximum wave height distribution becomes important when we examine statistical properties of freak waves over a series of recorded data. This is because a freak wave prediction is equivalent to estimating the maximum wave height and the exceedance probability (that is, Eq. (6.11) is insufficient for prediction). The PDF for the maximum wave height pm in wave trains can be obtained once the... 

The probability distribution function, Pm, and the exceedance probability, P j, of the maximum wave height can also be expressed as a function of the fourth cumulant of the surface elevation K40 and the number of waves N in the wave train. 

To summarize, quasi-resonant four-wave interactions introduce deviations from linear statistics for surface elevation in particular, for weakly nonlinear, narrow-banded and long-crested wave trains, the kurtosis evolves according to Eq. (6.19). In the narrow-band approximation, the kurtosis is related to the BFl [defined in Eq. (6.25)] the tail of the wave height distribution depends on the kurtosis/BFl and it increases as the kurtosis increases. Finally, the maximum wave height distribution depends on the number of waves in the wave train (record length) and on the kurtosis of the nonlinear wave field, as shown in Eq. (6.30). 

For a small number of waves N < 250, the ratio i treak depends linearly on 4. If /i4 = 3.1 and N < 500, the occurrence probability of freak waves is 50% more from the nonlinear theory than from the linear theory. However, the rate of increase in. Rfreak decreases as the number of waves increases. This is because, for very large number of waves, the maximum wave height almost always exceeds even in... 

The consequences of the maximum wave height distribution [Eq. (6.30)] are generally hard to verify, not only because Eq. (6.30) depends on the number of waves but also because large amount of data are required to characterize nonlinear effects. In the following discussion, we compare the above theories with a set of long time-series experimental data these data appear to be sufficiently long to make useful comparisons. 

Fig. 6.7. Comparison of maximum wave height distribution Hma /Vrms with N = 150 ( experimental data, solid line MER i7max distribution, dashed line Rayleigh i7max distribution).

A. Kimura and T. Ohta, Probability distribution of the maximum wave height along a sea wall with finite width, Proc. 25th ICCE (1996), pp. 2272-2283. 

The formula s design wave is the maximum wave height and can be evaluated by given diagrams and/or equations. 

Figure 6.19 The scaled wave height as a function of scaled explosive charge depth. The upper critical depth is the explosive charge depth when the maximum wave height occurs which is approximately two-thirds submerged. The second smaller increase in wave height is the lower critical depth. ...

The CSD, however, is sensitive to sea conditions and should preferably work in sheltered areas. This implies that when using a CSD it may be important to create sheltered conditions in an early stage of the project. Maximum wave heights for the large type of dredgers are typically 1.5 m, while for smaller vessels these should not exceed 0.6 m. 

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