Fixatives, perfume compounds

Dominant males of the European rabbit, 0. cuniculus, have 2-phenoxyethanol in their chin gland secretion. Behaviorally subordinate males lack this compound. When a subordinate becomes dominant after removal of the originally dominant male, 2-phenoxyethanol starts showing up in his secretion. The perfume industry uses this compound as a fixative. Rabbits perhaps also employ this... 

Cistus and labdanum products come from Mediterranean countries, mainly Spain, where the Cistus shrub grows abundantly. They are used widely in perfumery, giving perfume compositions a warm, balsamic tonality with a touch of ambergris. The typical odor originates from a number of compounds which are formed by oxidative degradation of diterpenes with labdane skeleton, which are the main constituents of labdanum gum [284a, 558 565aj. The resinoids and absolutes are excellent natural fixatives. FCT 1976 (14) p.335 [8016-26-0], [89997-74-0]. 

While perfumes may be simple or complex, they all consist of three principle ingredients the main scent, secondary or blender scents, and a fixative. The main scent is usually potent, and is balanced by the secondary scents added to it. The fixative is a compound that holds the whole thing together. Some fixatives work best for certain scents. The example, the best fixative for lavender scent is orris root. 

Xenoestrogens, exhibiting a wide molecular diversity, are found in a number of cosmetic products, such as plasticizers, perfume fixatives, and solvents (e.g., dibutyl phthalate), industrial chemicals and pollutants such as insecticides (e.g., methoxychlor, DDT, and DDE), epoxy resins, and polycarbonate (e.g., bisphenol A), and herbicides (e.g., simazine). This group of chemicals has been classified as environmental endocrine disruptor compounds (EDCs), defined as exogenous agents that interfere with the synthesis, transport, binding, action, or elimination of natural hormones in the body that are responsible for the maintenance of homeostasis, reproduction, development, and/or behavior. A list of representative chemicals is shown in Table 1 based on commercial usage. 

While by definition, aroma compounds need to be volatile enough to be inhaled into the nose, flavor compounds can either be volatile or non-volatile. Volatile compounds typically have molecular weights below 300 Daltons. Nonvolatile flavor compounds can have molecular weights well over 300. Detection of non-volatiles requires the use of TLC or HPLC either alone or in tandem with an identification technique. HPLC-NMR can identify non-volatile coumarins, sterols, fatty acids and psoralens, in citrus oils, such as the substituted psoralen byakangelicol, found in lemon peel oil. Non-volatiles can act as odor fixatives, impacting the release of a perfume from the skin. Non-volatiles also serve as authentication markers that are difficult to adjust or circumvent (27). 

Musk moskene C14H18N2O4 280.33 Synthetic nitro musk compound Uses fragrance and fixative in after-shave lotions, perfumes, etc. C,F 1.0% pet. - X... 

Uses fixative for perfumes, a bactericide [in conjunction with i,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (Euxyl K 400) and quaternary ammonium compounds], an insect repellent, a topical antiseptic, a solvent for cellulose acetate, dyes, inks, and resins in organic synthesis of plasticizers in germicides in pharmaceuticals in cosmetics in preservatives. PHENOXYETHANOL... 

The term phthalate is used to designate the dialkyl or alkyl aryl esters of phthalic acid. These compounds are used in the cosmetic industry mainly as denaturants of the alcohols used in their manufacture, as fixatives or solvents for some fragrances (e.g., synthetic musks) and as film formers. Thus, it is usual to find them in nail polish, hairsprays, and perfumes [75]. Moreover, these substances are mainly used in the manufacture of plastics to increase their flexibility. Therefore, they can be found in different manufacmred products, not only as part of its formulation but as a result of migration during manufacture or storage [1]. 

Only two lichen species are used in large quantities as raw material for the perfume industry Evemia prunastri (L.) Ach. and Pseudevemia furfuracea (L.) Zopf. Up to 9000 tons of these two species have been processed annually (1986) at Grasse, the centre of the perfume industry in France (Moxham 1981). The ethanol extract of both lichens has a typical mossy flavour and is used not only as a component in certain perfumes ( Chypre ), but also as a fixative which keeps the flavour for a long time. The essential compounds originate from the depsides present in the lichens by hydrolysis, decarboxylation of the corresponding hydro-xyacids and alcoholysis. Orcinol and methyl everninate (sparassol) are compounds with the typical mossy odour. 

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