Fabric finishing measurements

While direct, this method is the most difficult experimentally due to the diminutive nature of fiber diameters and the uncertainty involved with contact angle measurements and hysteresis. The value i ) can also be measured on flat sheets of the fiber material but due to fabric finishes and different surface properties incurred during manufacture, the surface energetics of the sheet and fiber may be very dissimilar. Therefore, the value of co8i i was determined in the following manner from detergency data. The Kubelka-Munk Equation (12-13),... 

Jefferson Chemical Company, Austin, Texas), for the fiber surface analog. This substitution was made since the fabric used in this study had a PEG fabric finish. This fabric finish differed from the Jeffox PEG-300 only in the fact that the former was higher molecular weight and therefore solid, while the latter was a liquid and amenable to SDIT measurement of and Yfs- With these values, the remaining eight surface parameters can be calculated. 

DCC) were used [7]. The wet pick up was 100% the cloth was predried at room temperature for 24 hours and cui at 110 C for 20 and 2 minutes respectively when CA was used. When DCC as a catalyst was used the thermofixation was omitted, the esterification was expected to occur at room temperature. The treated textile material was rinsed in cold vrater. The weight gain of the finished fabrics was measured. The samples were dried for 4 hours at 10S°C and weighed before and after finishing. 

The properties of textile fibers can be divided into three categories geometric, physical, and chemical, which can be measured with available methods (15—17). Perceived values such as tactile aesthetics, style appearance of apparel fabrics, comfort of hosiery, as weU as color, luster, and plushness of carpets are difficult to quantify and are not always associated with the properties of the fiber, but rather with the method of fabric constmction and finishing. 

Researchers had noted the release of formaldehyde by chemically treated fabric under prolonged hot, humid conditions (85,86). The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Test Method 112 (87), or the sealed-jar test, developed in the United States and used extensively for 25 years, measures the formaldehyde release as a vapor from fabric stored over water in a sealed jar for 20 hours at 49°C. The method can also be carried out for 4 hours at 65°C. Results from this test have been used to eliminate less stable finishes. 

Stress—Strain Curve. Other than the necessity for adequate tensile strength to allow processibiUty and adequate finished fabric strength, the performance characteristics of many textile items are governed by properties of fibers measured at relatively low strains (up to 5% extension) and by the change ia these properties as a function of varyiag environmental conditions (48). Thus, the whole stress—strain behavior of fibers from 2ero to ultimate extension should be studied, and various parameters should be selected to identify characteristics that can be related to performance. 

Whatever the source of the change, color reduction from the characteristic white observed for newly opened cotton is likely to be an indicator of deterioration in quality. Color differences in cotton can be a source of variations in dye shades in finished fabric. Color in raw cotton is measured by the cotton colorimeter. Two characteristics are measured—the reflectance (Rd) and the yellowness (+b)—under standard illumination and density. In the U.S. system, these two values are used to determine the color grade, which was previously determined visually. 

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