Fabric evidence from pseudomorphs

The third fabric evidence from Etowah is attached to a copper plate, presumed to be an eagle dancer plate (No. 1156, Burial 110). Parts of it are pseudomorphic. In an area of the plate, one can observe dark fibers manipulated into yams. The yams are from only one system, and no obvious evidence of fabric structure is discernible. Nonetheless, the fibers are part of a re-plied or complex yam type. Two singles are plied in a Z-direction to form a two-ply yam. Then the yam is twisted with another two-ply yam in an S-direction the result is a re-plied yarn (Figure 13). For the most part the yarns contain single smooth fibers. In certain areas the yam has frayed and lost its re-plied configuration. Initial examination by scanning electron microscopy revealed downy barbules indicative of feathers on adjacent fibrous material. 

Fabric evidence from the earlier site, as represented by pseudo-morphs after fabric found on two copper earspools and a copper plate, is one of the simplest types of twining observed, namely, spaced twining. It can be seen on the upper surface of the earspool and on both surfaces of the plate from Mound C. Because no evidence indicated that yarn pseudomorphs had been dislodged, the original fabric structure is assumed to have consisted of spaced twining. The very nature of spaced twining requires action of the weft yams rather than those of the warp ... 

Archaeological textiles occasionally occur in forms that mislead the analyst. The mineralized fabric evidence known as pseudomorphs after fabric is one such form. Fabric remains may be recovered in pieces crumpled together and may exhibit pronounced structural variation. In such instances, one cannot rely on a series of tests from one area of the fabric to identify characteristics of the entire fabric. 

It is evident from the work completed, however, that direct fabric evidence, whether fabric or pseudomorph after fabric, contains much data about prehistoric fabrics of southeastern North America. The information gleaned from their study can be used to reconstruct the cultural implications of fabric manufacture and use among the prehistoric peoples of the region. 

The objective of the study is to determine the nature and extent of pseudomorphs on Spl by mapping, with photomicrography and statistical sampling techniques. The population to be studied consisted of all pseudomorphs after fabric located on the spearpoint. A survey previously conducted with microscopy identified the general location of the mineralized fabrics. A research hypothesis, derived from the survey of evidence, governed the study and is as follows Pseudomorphs after fabric located on Spl are fragments of an unbalanced plain-weave type of fabric. 

Types of twined fabric structures composed of bast or phloem fibers and feathers were identified in prehistoric fabrics of southeastern North America by chemical and physical analyses and technical fabrication studies. Fabrics and either partially or completely mineralized pseudomorphs after fabric from the Tunacunnhee and Etowah sites in Georgia (dated respectively A.D. 150 95 years and about A.D. 1200) were examined. The work confirms the presence of at least two types of twined structures for the earlier Hopewell site and intricately constructed re-plied yarns and twined fabric for the later Mississippian one. The study of fabrics from both sites provides evidence of the kinds of materials produced and used by prehistoric peoples of the region during a 1000-year interlude. 

The presence of yarn-type formations from two different systems interlacing in a perpendicular relation to each other confirms a formerly woven-fabric structure for the pseudomorphs. The evidence of the pseu-domorphic fibers, yarns, and fabrics confirms the former presence of silk fabrics on a Shang Dynasty bronze weapon. Further discussion and implications of these findings fall outside the purview of this investigation future work will focus upon an analysis of specific fabric structures present on Shang bronzes. 

---