Tincture of ambergris

Bouquet of Spring Flowers.—Extraits de rose et violette, each one pint extrait d acacia and essence of rose, each two and a half ounces attar of bergamot, two drachms tincture of ambergris, one ounce. Mix, and after tan days, filter. 

In addition to large-scale process work, there is also some effort expended in providing synthetic methods for producing small amounts (<100 kg/yr) of materials needed for replacement of naturals that are being discontinued or in short supply. Examples are ambrinol (59) and dihydro-y-ionone (60) for the replacement of ambergris. More recendy, tincture of tonquin musk has been replaced by using, among other materials, mixtures of macrocyclic ketones and alcohols which have been found in the natural substance. 

Together, these compounds largely represent the odor of ambergris. Ambergris is applied as a 3% tincture in 90% ethanol, which is matured by standing over a period of time with occasional shaking. It was used in fine fragrances. FCT 1976 (14) p. 675. 

Bouquet [Pg.674]

Bouquet dee MillejkurS.—Extrait de rose, one pint ex traits des tubdreuse, jasmin, fleur d orangcr, cassie, et violette, each half a pint essence of cedar, four ounces tincture of vanilla, ambergris, and musk, each two ounces essence of rose, half a pint attar of bergamot, ono ounce attars of almonds, neroli, and cloves, each ten drops. Mix, leave to rcpoBe for week, and filter. 

Bouquet Royal.—Extrait de rose, one pint extraits des jasmin et violette, each eight ounces extraits d acaeia et verveine, each two and a half ounces essence of rose, half a. pint attars of lemons and bergamot, each two drachms tinctures of musk and ambergris, each otic ounce. Mix, and after eight or. ten days repose, filter. 

Bouquet de Rondektia.—Attar of lavender, two ounces attars of cloves and bergamot, each one ounce attar of roses, three drachms tinctures of musk, vanilla, and ambergris, each four ounces deodorized alcohol, one gallon. Mix, and after a month s repose, filter. 

At the time when Shalimar was made it was customary to use a high proportion of the alcoholic tinctures made from natural products, rather than the concentrated absolutes and resins. These would have included such products as vanilla, benzoin, and tonka to give naturalness to the ethyl vanillin and coumarin, as well as tinctures of civet, castoreum, ambergris, and musk. Such products retain more of the most volatile components of the starting material, giving a wonderful quality and life to the finished product. 

The dominant woody aspect of the perfume is made up of Vertofix (12%), vetiver notes, cedryl acetate, and sandalwood, with guaiacwood supporting the rose. The mossy character comes from oakmoss and a complex based on isobutyl quinoline reminiscent of Mousse de Saxe. There is also a small amount of a spicy carnation note including one of the sweet spices such as clove or pimento. The wonderful richness of the perfume suggests the addition of numerous other materials in very small amounts, and it is probable that in the creation of a perfume such as this tinctures of musk, ambergris, and civet would also have been used. 

A food extract, such as a lemon extract, is really not a chemical extraction but consists of the essential oils that are mechanically pressed out of lemon skin and then kept in a 45% solution of alcohol. A drug extract is called a tincture. Tinctures are usually alcohol solutions and are liquid-solid extractions. Examples are the tincture of iodine, oil of wintergreen, oil of clove, and oil of peppermint. Cosmetic extracts such as ambergris, musk, castor, and benzoin, are called essences and are used to make perfumes. 

The most important olfactory constituent in ambergris is (-)-Ambrox ((3aR,5aS,9aS,9bf )-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,l-b]furan). A 3 % ambergris tincture in 90 % alcohol, which is allowed to mature for a while with occasional shaking, embodies the first four tonalities of a damp, mossy forest floor, a strong scent of tobacco and balsamic sandalwood, mixed with the character of a warm animal musk. 

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