Stratum content

Emulsion components enter the stratum corneum and other epidermal layers at different rates. Most of the water evaporates, and a residue of emulsifiers, Hpids, and other nonvolatile constituents remains on the skin. Some of these materials and other product ingredients may permeate the skin others remain on the surface. If the blend of nonvolatiles materially reduces the evaporative loss of water from the skin, known as the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the film is identified as occlusive. AppHcation of a layer of petrolatum to normal skin can reduce the TEWL, which is normally about 4—8 g/(m h), by as much as 50 to 75% for several hours. The evaporated water is to a large extent trapped under the occlusive layer hydrating or moisturizing the dead cells of the stratum corneum. The flexibiHty of isolated stratum corneum is dependent on the presence of water dry stratum corneum is britde and difficult to stretch or bend. Thus, any increase in the water content of skin is beHeved to improve the skin quaHty. 

Use of topical retinoids (tretinoin, tazaro-tene, retinol formulations) for 2 to 6 weeks prior to peeling thins the stratum cornemn, reduces the content of epidermal melanin, and expedites epidermal healing. Retinoids also enhance the penetration of the peeling agent. They should be discontinued several days prior to the peeling procedure. Retinoids can be resumed post-operatively after all evidence of... 

Ghosh [548] used cellulose nitrate microporous filters (500 pm thick) as scaffold material to deposit octanol into the pores and then under controlled pressure conditions, displace some of the oil in the pores with water, creating a membrane with parallel oil and water pathways. This was thought to serve as a possible model for some of the properties of the outermost layer of skin, the stratum comeum. The relative proportions of the two types of channel could be controlled, and the properties of 5-10% water pore content were studied. Ibuprofen (lipophilic) and antipyr-ine (hydrophilic) were model drugs used. When the filter was filled entirely with water, the measured permeability of antipyrine was 69 (in 10 6 cm/s) when 90% of the pores were filled with octanol, the permeability decreased to 33 95% octanol content further decreased permeability to 23, and fully octanol-filled filters indicated 0.9 as the permeability. 

Hydration (water content) of the stratum comeurn affects penetrability. 

The homy layer consists of about 10% extracellular components such as lipids, proteins, and mucopolysaccharides. Around 5% of the protein and lipids form the cell wall. The majority of the remainder is present in the highly organized cell contents, predominantly as keratin fibers, which are generally assigned an a-helical structure. They are embedded in a sulphur-rich amorphous matrix, enclosed by lipids that probably he perpendicular to the protein axis. Since the stratum comeum is able to take up considerably more water than the amount that corresponds to its volume, it is assumed that this absorbed fluid volume is mainly located in the region of these keratin structures. 

FIGURE 13.3. Sorption isotherms of water vapor as a function of the relative humidity, composition of constituents, and water content in the stratum comeum. 

Skin tape stripping can be used to determine the concentration of chemical in the stratum comeum at the end of a short application period (30 min) and by linear extrapolation predict the percutaneous absorption of that chemical for longer application periods. The chemical is applied to skin of animals or humans, and after a 30-minute skin contact application time, the stratum comeum is blotted and then removed by successive tape applications. The tape strippings are assayed for chemical content. There is a linear relationship between this stratum comeum reservoir content and percutaneous absorption. The major advantages of this method are (1) the elimination of urinary and fecal excretion to determine absorption and (2) the applicability to nonradiolabeled determination of percutaneous absorption, because the skin strippings contain adequate chemical concentrations for nonlabeled assay methodology. 

The nails are composed of flattened, keratinized cells, fused into a dense and hard, yet slightly elastic plate. Their thickness varies from 0.5 to 1.0 mm. In contrast to the stratum corneum (10%), the total lipid content of the nails lies between 0.1% and 1%, and the keratin domain is harder, due to higher sulfur content (cystine). Moreover, the water content is only 7% to 12%, in comparison to 25% in the stratum corneum. The relative water gain may not exceed 25% at 100% relative humidity, in sharp contrast to 200-300% as found in the stratum corneum. 

Estimating the geometric parameters for the model from micrographs and experimental data on the lipid content of the stratum corneum, the equation for the permeability through the stratum corneum reduced to Eq. 35 ... 

Urea is used in cream or ointment to make it less greasy, it increases the water content of stratum corneum which may be because of its hygroscopic property. It also possesses keratolytic property. 

Urea increases the water content of the stratum corneum, presumably as a result of the hygroscopic characteristics of this naturally occurring molecule. Urea is also keratolytic. The mechanism of action appears to involve alterations in prekeratin and keratin, leading to increased solubilization. In addition, urea may break hydrogen bonds that keep the stratum... 

The stratum granulosum is the most superficial cell layer of the viable epidermis and contains highly differentiated keratinocytes. The lamellar bodies, which have been formed in the stratum spinosum, migrate to the apical periphery of the uppermost granular cells and eventually fuse with the membrane of the keratinocyte. Via exocytosis their content is extruded into the intercellular spaces at the stratum granulosum-stratum corneum interface. The lipids derived from the lamellar bodies are essential for the formation of the stratum corneum barrier. 

Williams, M.L., and P.M. Elias. 1981. Stratum corneum lipids in disorders of cornification Increased cholesterol sulfate content of stratum corneum in recessive x-linked ichthyosis. J Clin Invest 68 1404. 

Urea is a hydrating agent (a hydrotrope) used to treat scaling conditions such as psoriasis, ichthyosis, and other hyperkeratotic skin conditions. Applied in a water-in-oil vehicle, urea alone or in combination with ammonium lactate hydrated stratum corneum and improved barrier function when compared to the vehicle alone in human volunteers in vivo [45], Urea also has keratolytic properties, usually when combined with salicylic acid for keratolysis. The somewhat modest penetration-enhancing activity of urea probably arises from a combination of increasing stratum corneum water content (water is a valuable penetration enhancer) and through the keratolytic activity. 

Propylene glycol is also an effective humectant and increases the water content of the stratum corneum. The hygroscopic characteristics of the agent may help it to develop an osmotic gradient through the stratum corneum, thereby increasing hydration of the outermost layers by drawing water out from the inner layers of the skin. 

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