Fragrances history

Clinical relevance of a positive patch-test reaction may exist for at least 55-65% of positive results. Strongly positive patch test reactions (2+ or 3+) are more likely to be associated with a positive fragrance history than a weak or doubtful reaction (Frosch et al. 1995b). A positive ROAT (repeated open application test, twice daily application on the antecubital fossa for a maximum of two weeks) (Johansen et al. 1996) with fragrance ingredients makes relevance of the reaction more likely. 

Through many hours of consultations with experts in toxicology, medicine and environmental health, Ka ren learned about MCS, and finally realized that even she and her other daughter Mariah, age nine at interview, were reacting to chemicals from fragrances and other sources. It explained to her why Alanna s colds and sore throats so often developed into pneumonia or bronchitis, and why she experienced asthma attacks for no apparent reason. This awakening also prompted her to examine her own history of chemical exposures. 

The Chemistry of Fragrances, by D. H. Pybus and C. S. Sell, Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge, 1999, contains all the amateur needs to know on the subject. Additionally, the site http //www.eau-de-cologne.com (in German) describes the history of the perfume, and the site http //www.farinal709.com contains additional information for the interested novice. 

Since early antiquity, spices and resins from animal and plant sources have been used extensively for perfumery and flavor purposes, and to a lesser extent for their observed or presumed preservative properties. Fragrance and flavor materials vary from highly complex mixtures to single chemicals. Their history began when people discovered that components characteristic of the aroma of natural products could be enriched by simple methods. Recipes for extraction with olive oil and for distillation have survived from pre-Christian times to this day. 

The history of Givaudan [7)], International Flavors 8c Fragrances [8] and Quest International [9] can be looked up at their respectively cited Web sites. 

The history of monohydric alcohol-based ester-type plasticizers for polyvinyl chloride is reviewed, and a prediction of the future for these plasticizers in the eighties is made. Finally, although not in the large volume category compared to many monohydric alcohols, the rather sophisticated chemistry used to produce monohydric alcohols for the flavors and fragrance industry is covered. 

Terpenoid alcohols appeared early in the history of synthetic perfumery because several were readily available from inexpensive essential oils. Alpha-terpineol, citronellol and linalool shown in Figure 7 are important constituents of pine stump oil, citro-nella oil and rosewood oil, respectively. The fourth material listed, hydroxycitronellal, is a hydroxy aldehyde which perhaps has a questionable place in this discussion. It is included because it is one of the most important fragrance chemicals used today. "Hydroxy" is almost a perfume unto itself. Its soft flowery, linden blossom odor blends very well in many floral perfumes. 

Patch testing (and photopatch testing) should document the few cases due to allergic contact dermatitis. Apart from the routine battery, testing should be performed with the fragrance and preservative series, as well as any cosmetic or skin care product that the patient uses. Immediate-type testing should be performed if indicated by the history. If systemic symptoms were present, perform only in the presence of emergency resuscitative facilities. 

D. H. Pybus, The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume. In The Chemistry of Fragrances From Perfumer to Consumer, 2nd ed. C. Sell, Ed. The Royal Society of Chemistry Cambridge, 2006 pp 3-23. 

Table A2 illustrates essentially what the perfume-ethanol-water mix is in a fragrance bottle, denoted by its description. Figure A1 traces the historical growth of alchemical tradition from the five main centres of civilization through 5000 years of history to the present.

The use of essential oils is restricted by their price, availability and chemical stability. Many of the components of natural oils do not survive in products such as bleaches, laundry powders and even soaps. For example, the major component in jasmine oil is benzyl acetate, which is hydrolysed in all of these owing to their high pH (13-14, 10-11 and 9-10, respectively) and it is also susceptible to the oxidants present in the first two. The indole present in jasmine will cause soap to discolour. The discovery and application of synthetic fragrance materials towards the end of the nineteenth century and throughout the twentieth was therefore a momentous event in the history of the industry. Nowadays, fragrances... 

Terpenoids are also put to uses for which their physical or chemical properties suit them but which are not the uses for which nature originally intended them. Rubber is a polymer of isoprene which is produced in the rubber tree as a defensive secretion but is widely used by humans because of its elastic properties. Turpentine has a long history of use as a solvent, particularly for paints and, similarly, lac resin as varnish. Nowadays, turpentine is also used as a feedstock for the synthesis of other materials of commercial interest, in addition to a wide variety of fragrance ingredients. 

In order to illustrate the above factors in operation, we will look at the history of the production of a group of monoterpenoids, related to citral, which are major ingredients of the fragrance industry. In order to understand the commercial background to the technical work, it will be beneficial first to look at some of the background to the fragrance ingredients business. 

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