Combing wools

Wool-acrylic blends Wool combing Wool-cotton blends Wool dyes Woolen systems... 

A wool combing plant typically comprises the following processes ... 

In woolen spinning there are no highly efficient mechanical methods to remove VM. Generally, very clean scoured wool, combed wools, or carbonized wool must be used as inputs, or fabrics must be carbonized. 

Worsted A smooth-surfaced yarn spun from long-stapled pure wool, combed so that Us fibers lie parallel to each other. 

The oil is used almost solely for edible purposes, e.g. cooking oil, salad oil, but inedible grades are used for soap making, in wool combing and in cosmetics. 

Wool is traded as raw wool (greasy wool), scoured and carbonized wool, combed top, comber waste, offal, and as sheepskin. 

Combing is thus a critical process in producing a quaUty top. It is also a costiy process, and a modem comb wiU only produce at a maximum rate of about 30 kg/h for 21 p.m wool. 

Processes 8 and 9 again employ giUs. The purpose is to shuffle the fibers in the combed sUvet to produce a random positional distribution, and thus the most even sUvet possible. The second finisher gilling wiU also incorporate either a baU winding head, or a press that condenses top that has been deUveted into a can. This latter product is caUed bump top. Both baU and bump facUities ate usuaUy necessary to satisfy customers differing needs. Bumps or baUs wUl then be further pressed into bales for shipment. Combed wool destined for processing on the woolen system may be sucked in short lengths from the comb to form broken top. 

Some combing plants also produce shrink-resistant treated wool-top. The current process incorporates chlorination, and the appHcation of a shrinkproofing polymer. Chlorination is likely to be replaced soon by mote environmentally friendly treatments. 

Kamm-gam, n. worsted (yarn), -gras, n. dog s-tail. -kies, m. cockscomb pyrites (variety of marcasite). -muschel,/. scallop, -rad, n. cog wheel, -wolle,/. combing wool, long wool, -zug, m. (Textiles) combed material, (of wool) slubbing. 

Preparation for Dyeing. Raw wool must he cleaned before it can be efficiently carded, combed, otherwise processed, or dyed. 

WOOL, The natural, highly crimped fiber from sheep, wool is one of the oldest fibers from the standpoint of use in textiles. Minute scales on the surface of the fibers allow them to interlock and are responsible for the ability of the fiber to felt, a phenomenon responsible for felt cloth and mill-finished worsteds. Crimpiness in wool is due to the open formation of the scales. Fine merino wool has 24 crimps per inch ( " 10 per centimeter). Luster of the fiber depends upon the size and smoothness of the scales. The basic wool protein, keratin, comprises molecular chains that are linked with sulfur. When sulfur is fed to sheep in areas deficient of the element, the quality of the wool improves. Wool fibers that fall below 3 inches (7.5 centimeters) in length are known as clothing wool fibers 3-7 inches (7.5-17.8 centimeters) long are referred to as combing wools. The wool-liber diameter ranges from 0.0025 to 0.005 inch (0.06-0.13 millimeter). See also Fibers. 

Polyester/wool blends are very popular, the most common blend ratios are 55 45 and 70 30 polyester wool. Polyester rich blends are normally constructed from a texturised polyester fibre warp and 55 45 polyester wool weft yams. The 20 80 polyester/wool is woven from 55 45 warp and a pure weft yam. Worsted polyester/wool blend yams may contain 2.5 - 3% solvent extractable oil, compared with 3.5- 5% for similar all wool yams. The oils have much greater affinity for polyester fibre than wool and after normal piece scouring, the blends contain residual oil content of 0.6 - 1.2% compared with 0.3% for wool. Oxidation of combing oil is influenced by exposure to light which should be avoided before scouring. Addition of surfactant to combing oil improves the scourability of the blend fabric [75]. 

DETERGENTS AND SCOURING Table 9.3 Scouring of combing wools... 

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