Perfumes labdanum

Resins such as myrrh, frankincense, and labdanum achieved prominence early in antiquity for their fragrant smell and were used for making perfumes and medicines as well as for burning as incense during religious services and ritual ceremonies (Morris 1984). Some well-known incense resins are listed in Table 76. 

Cistus and labdanum products come from Mediterranean countries, mainly Spain, where the Cistus shrub grows abundantly. They are used widely in perfumery, giving perfume compositions a warm, balsamic tonality with a touch of ambergris. The typical odor originates from a number of compounds which are formed by oxidative degradation of diterpenes with labdane skeleton, which are the main constituents of labdanum gum [284a, 558 565aj. The resinoids and absolutes are excellent natural fixatives. FCT 1976 (14) p.335 [8016-26-0], [89997-74-0]. 

Many natural products such as labdanum, cedarwood, and clary sage are fractionated and chemically treated (in this or in the reverse order) to produce derivatives of exceedingly complex composition which, for the perfumer s purposes, behave as naturals. These can be... 

Some of the most successful bases contain quite simple accords of only two or three materials, perhaps dressed up with a number of auxiliary products. The combination of phenoxyethyl isobutyrate and dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, used in many fruity notes, produces an unmistakable character that survives even when used in trace amounts in a finished perfume. Similarly an ambergris base, made from a simple combination of labdanum, olibanum, and vanilla, brings an unmistakable effect. Such bases, which the perfumer may create for him- or herself, are not only valuable building blocks in the creation of a perfume but are a convenient way of introducing trace amounts of materials that in combination make a special contribution to the character of the final composition. 

The word "chypre derives from the island of Cyprus, which for many centuries was the meeting point between East and West for the trade in aromatic materials. During the nineteenth century it became famed for the production of perfumes combining the citrus oils, floral pomades, and labdanum of the Mediterranean region, with resins and gums, such as styrax, incense, opoponax, and myrrh, imported from Arabia. Animal products such as civet from Ethiopia and musk from the Himalayas were also among the most valued commodities. 

Apart from the materials already mentioned the top note contains a simple mixture of bergamot and orange. The middle note is dominated by a traditional jasmin base, with muguet (hydroxycitronellal 10%), and rose. At the heart of the perfume is the classical chypre accord between vetiveryl acetate (10%), methyl ionone, oakmoss, aldehyde C14, coumarin, sandalwood, patchouli, musk ketone, and amber. The amber note can be reproduced by the simple but effective combination of labdanum, olibanum, and vanilla. Small amounts of other animalic notes such as civet may also be used. 

Labdanum absolute and oil are used as a fixative and/or fragrance component in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions, and perfumes, with maximum use levels of 0.4% and 0.8% reported for the absolute and oil, respectively, in perfumes. 

GUM LABDANUM is a dark-brown to black resin obtained from a species of evergreen shrubs known as Cistus and native to the Mediterranean region. Its flavor is bitter its odor fragrant. Absolute and soluble forms are sold. Medicinally it is used as a stimulant and industrially as a perfume fixative. 

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