Jacquard Looms

In Jacquard looms (Figs. 4.18 and 4.19), the position of each single warp thread is controlled hy a harness thread that allows almost any kind of pattern. A selection mechanism controls if the knife hox picks the collar board that is connected to the heald. The selection is controlled by needles or electromagnets. Traditionally, data have been stored on paper cards (one of the earliest applications of the binary system). At present, electronic data storage systems such as discs, CDs, CAD computers, or EPROMs are used to control Jacquard looms. 

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A turning point for Sperry was his attendance at the Philadelphia Centennial exposition in 1876. Sperry was particularly fascinated by the Machinery Hall, observing for hours, for example, a Jacquard loom incorporating an early version of card punch automatic control. 

Beaded velvet n. Velvet with a cut-out pattern or a velvet pile effect, made on a Jacquard loom. This fabric is used primarily... 

Matelasse n. A soft, double or compound fancy-woven fabric with a quilted appearance. Heavier types are used as draperies and upholsteries. Crepe matelasse is used for dresses, wraps, and other apparel. Matelasse is usually woven on a Jacquard loom. 

Terry cloth n. A cotton or cotton-blend fabric having uncut loops on one or both sides. Made on a dobby loom with a terry arrangement or on a Jacquard loom. It is used for toweling, beach robes, etc. 

Jacquard, Joseph Marie (1752-1834) A French inventor, Jacquard created a series of mechanical looms in the early nineteenth century. His experiments culminated in the Jacquard loom attachment, which could be programmed, via punch cards, to weave silk in various patterns, colors, and textures automatically. The labor-saving device became highly popular in the silk-weaving industry, and its inventor received royalties on each unit sold and became wealthy in the process. The loom inspired scientists to incorporate the concept of punch cards for computer information stors e. 

Figure 4.18 Jacquard loom (Courtesy of the Picanol Group)...

Jacquard looms 157 Jacquard technique 179 Jeans 86, 137, 166, 279 Jet loom 161 Jig 267... 

Early work by Hitco used angle (warp) interlock with thick woven fabrics [44]. Soden and Hill [45] have described the fabrication of a diverse range of flat and shaped preforms using conventional weaving, undertaken on an electronically controlled Jacquard power loom with a CAD design package developed at Ulster University [46]. 

Faconne n. A broad term for fabrics with a fancy-type weave made on a Jacquard or dobby loom. 

Wilton carpet Woven carpet in which the pile yarns are woven in as an integral part of the carpet, being held in place by the filling, usually made on a loom with a Jacquard head. 

However, a simpler solution is to change not the material or the pattern, but simply the number of warp yarns used during construction. For example, a shuttle loom equipped with a jacquard shedding system controlled by... 

Walters, 1938 Walters and Gatzke, 1954 Finken and Robinson, 1959) because it was possible to realize them on simple looms. Much more sophisticated looms with electronic control were required for the realization of the weft interlock 3D weaving concept. For example, the use of a programmable Jacquard machine is implied in the patent of Miller et al. (1990). In the next two subsections, we briefly review each of these fabric manufacturing processes. 

The shedding mechanism is one of the primary motions of a loom. A Jacquard shedding mechanism is used for weaving 3D preforms because the individual warp fibers are controlled independently by Jacquard harness cords. A 3D fabric and preforms can be woven on a 2D conventional rapier loom, but there is a fabric thickness limitation when using any conventional 2D loom. 

There are multiple stations in a narrow fabric shuttle loom. That means the same structure in multiple stations or different structures can be woven on the same loom depending on the capacity of the Jacquard hooks and the total picks per inch in the structure. It is difficult to produce 3D and complex shapes using carbon and brittle fibers on a needle loom. A narrow fabric needle loom (Hans Walter Kipp, 1989) can also be used to produce some 3D preforms. A typical narrow fabric needle loom is shown in Figure 9.58. The selvedge on the side of filling insertion needle is a true... 

The 2D conventional loom is modified to weave various 3D woven preforms. What kind of modification(s) should be carried out depends on the nature of preforms to be produced. The take-up and shedding motions are modified in many ways along with other tools that are also installed. Modified looms are used to produce thick panels, contour materials, polar materials, and complex 3D preforms. An unlimited number of 3D preforms and complex shapes can be woven on a modified loom with electronic Jacquard. Figure 9.60 shows a narrow fabric shuttle loom weaving a 50-mm-thick carbon panel. An orthogonal weave has been used with a dead pick motion so thatX, Y, and Z fibers are perpendicular to each other. 

Pattern-weaving loom (Joseph M. Jacquard) Jacquard invents a loom for pattern weaving. 

In 1801, Joseph Marie Jacquard demonstrated a means of controlling looms using punched cards, thereby creating the world s first programable machine. If a different set of punched cards was used, the pattern of the loom s weave was changed. 

Joseph Marie Jacquard 1752-1834 Franoe Programable loom... 

Punched card input systems were first used by J. M. Jacquard in 1805 to control weaving looms. Such systems were used in many early computer systems into the 1950s. 

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