Perfume lilac

Lilac perfume CIMETIIYLBENZYL CARBINOL, CINNAMIC ALCOHOL... 

A typical lilac perfume in Figure 2 contains 48% alcohols, all monohydric. 

We have already met one important acetal in multistriatin, the insect pheromone discussed in Chapter 1. Another is green leaf lilac perfume (3). The acetal group is easily recognised and the synthesis straightforward. 

Lilac.—The flowers of this shrub—eyrinya vulgaris —are very fragrant, and yield a perfume by the process of enfleurage, resembling that from the tuberose. 

During the early years of the century a number of successful perfumes had been made based on salicylates, usually on a combination of amyl and benzyl salicylate. Among these were floral-aldehydic perfumes such as Quelques Fleurs and Fleurs de Rocailles with a dominant lilac note, and Je Reviens based on narcisse and jonquille. Many of these perfumes also contained a combination of eugenol and isoeugenol as part of a carnation complex, and it was these in combination with benzyl salicylate which were to form the inspiration for the creation of L Air du Temps. 

The middle part of the perfume is a bouquet of floral notes reduced to their simplest components. Terpineol for lilac, styrallyl acetate for gardenia, phenylethyl alcohol for rose, hydroxycitronellal (10%) for muguet, and benzyl acetate and amyl cinnamic aldehyde for jasmin. 

Although less closely related to L Air du Temps than Fidji, we may think of Anais Anais (Cacharel 1979) as a perfume created within the same tradition. Again its character is essentially floral, in this case a combination of "white flowers," including jasmin, muguet, lilac, magnolia, tuberose, honeysuckle, and carnation, with a complex of woody notes, musks, and salicylates (6%). 

One of the earliest perfumes to use undecalactone (so-called aldehyde Cl4) was Mitsouko, created by Guerlain in 1919. This marvelous chypre still survives as one of the great artistic masterpieces of perfumery. As with many perfumes created around that time lilac played an important part in the floral side of the composition, and this, with the fruity notes and opoponax, was again used in the creation of Femme (Rochas 1942). 

All of these disconnections relied on the reaction of a carbon electrophile with a nucleophilic functional group. The alternative, reaction of a carbon nucleophile (such as a Grignard reagent) with an electrophilic functional group, allows us to do C-C disconnections on alcohols, For example, this compound, which has a fragrance reminiscent of lilac, is a useful perfume for use in soap because (unlike many other perfumes that are aldehydes or ketones) it is stable to alkali. 

The extreme dilution of methylacetophenone gives a perfume resembling the odor of the climbing plant glycine (Wisteria sinensis), native to China and cultivated elsewhere. The name is also given to bouquets made from violet, lilac, and jasmin ottos. 

This is a synthetic perfume having a definite penetrating odor of narcissus and is used in many perfumes of the lily, lilac, and honey suckle type. 

C10H14O, Mr 150.22, mp 24 °C, bpm3 kPa 214-216 °C, df 0.9840, ng° 1.5170, has not yet been found in nature. The alcohol has a floral-herbaceous odor, reminiscent of lilac, and is prepared by a Grignard reaction of benzylmagnesium chloride and acetone. It is used in perfumery for various flower notes (e.g., lilac, hyacinth, mimosa). The alcohol is stable to alkali and is thus suited for soap perfumes. It is used to prepare a number of esters, which are also used as fragrance substances. 

USE In perfumery, to emphasize the odor of sweet floral perfumes, such as lilac and cyclamen. 

Clove leaf oil The crude oil is a dark brown to lilac brown, somewhat viscous liquid with a medical-phenolic, rough, burnt taste. For use in perfumes or flavors the crude oil is usually rectified to furnish a clear, yellow to light brown mobile liquid with a less burnt, sweet-spicy taste which is more dry-woody than the flower oil. It is produced from the leaves. Composition Like the flower oil, the leaf oil contains eugenol (ca. 85%) and caryophyllene (ca. 10% or more) as major components, but hardly any eugenyl acetate. 

The cyclohexene ring of racemic a-terpineol, which smells like the blossoms of lilac and is used in perfumes and for denaturing fats in soap manufaeture, is set up by a Diels-Alder reaction Isoprene is the diene, and methyl arylate the approp-... 

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