Kerf Wedges

Set end dogs (2), or if you feel the top slab will not curl up or twist, insert kerf wedges. Set up the winch (3), lifting up on the winch handle as you drive or hand-press the front dog into the slab. 

Once the counterweight is in position, you can start milling, setting kerf wedges as necessary. Near the end of the cut, remove the counterweight and winch, and set the final wedges... 

Insert kerf wedges as necessary and continue milling to the end of the cut. Then remove the winch and, after inserting the final two kerf wedges, complete the cut by hand-milling, as before (4). Check the cut for accuracy (5). 

From this slab we will mill one 2"xl2 /g" board. Adjust the mill for a 2-in. cut and move the entry guide rail to the center of the board to support the mill (6). Mill by hand until the saw is well into the cut. Set kerf wedges instead of dogs if you feel the board won t curl up too much (7). Then mount the counterweight and winch, and continue milling (8). 

When you re at the end of the cut, remove the winch and counterweight, insert final kerf wedges, and hand-mill out of the cut (6). 

Now adjust the mill to a cutting height of 4 in. and position the entry guide rail so it will ride on a board in the center of the stack. Start resawing (1). Insert kerf wedges when the mill is well into the cut (2), and attach the winching apparatus and counterweight (3). You won t need the yoke for shallow cuts. 

Remove the kerf wedges and end dogs and flip the slab to inspect the cut (3). If you want to, you can make unedged lumber from this slab. 

Mill until the saw is well into the cut, and set the end dogs. When you reach the center of the curve, slide the guide plank to the other end board (5), insert the kerf wedges and continue milling. Insert another pair of kerf wedges before the saw completes the cut. Remove the guide plank and the end boards. 

Now flip the top slab and inspect it for a usable knee (1). Wedge or block the slab in a stable position (2) and adjust mill height to desired knee thickness. Start the cut and insert kerf wedges or set end dogs as necessary. Mill past the center of the curve and insert another pair of wedges j3). Insert a final pair of wedges before completing the cut (4). Repeat the process on the other slab for a second knee. 

To start the cut, pass the mill over the guide plank and around the end board (1). Start to mill, setting end dogs or kerf wedges as necessary (2). Mill until you need to reposition the guide plank. Do this and complete the cut (3). Remove the top slab and flip it, adjust the mill to the desired knee thickness and mill (4,5). 

Make the wedges from pieces of hardwood that are about /sj in. thicker than the kerf (1). Taper the ends of the wedges slightly and round the corners for easy entrance into the kerf. Rounded handle ends with chamfered edges are easy on the hands, I paint my wedges a bright color to make them easy to spot if they drop into the sawdust. The paint helps preserve the wood, too. 

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