Cable and Anchor Reef

Fig. 1. Map of Long Island Sound showing contours of water depth, the Mattituck Sill (MS), Falkner Island (FI), Cable and Anchor Reef (CAR), Eatons Neck (EN), and the Race (R). 

To test these estimates of bottom disturbance by waves, a wave recorder was placed on Cable and Anchor Reef, where the water is 12.5 m deep, during the winter months of 1975. Water pressure was recorded continuously for 3 min each hour. Cable and Anchor Reef is surrounded by deep water and there is a long, open fetch to the east. The recorder is sensitive to pressure changes equivalent to 2 cm of water the period and amplitude of all recorded signals greater than this were read out and analyzed. The wavelength of the wave responsible for a pressure fluctuation 8p is found by graphical solution of the equation ... 

Fig. 3. Maximum horizontal water particle speed at the bottom on Cable and Anchor Reef, as calculated from wave-recorder records, and the square of the wind speed measured at Eatons Neck during a winter storm.

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