Sea State Characteristics and Wave Generating Factors

When the term sea state is mentioned, it is often connected to ideas of the chaotic appearance of the sea surface observed during sea travel or on the coast. It seems as if a discernible order in the sea state does not exist. This chaotic appearance of the sea surface results from waves of different height, length, and period, whose wave crests often come from different 

Sea state is called wind sea, if it is stimulated by the wind and if it increases under the influence of the wind. If the wind speed decreases or the waves move out of the wind field, the appearance of the sea state on the sea surface becomes more even. This sea state is called swell (see Fig. 7.1). 

If the sea states shifts to the coast or to shallow water areas, the transformation of the waves and finally the surf is initiated. These processes are schematically presented in Fig. 7.2. 

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