Modern perfumery

The woody part of the perfume is again based on vetiveryl acetate with vetiver (6%) and sandalwood. The oakmoss is backed up by a small amount of Evemyl, a synthetic material created as a result of the study of natural oakmoss, and one that has come to play an increasingly important role in modern perfumery. Coumarin is again present with a trace of vanillin, and cyclopentadecanolide backs up the musk ketone. 

Jellinek, P. 1954. The Practice of Modern Perfumery, transl. by A. J. Krajkeman. Leonard Hill Ltd., London. 

Modern perfumery is a blend of art, science and technology, with chemistry being the central science involved. The Chemistry of Fragrances aims to educate and entertain, and inform the audience of the very latest chemistry, techniques and tools applied to fragrance creativity. 

Our primary aim in this book is to show the use of chemistry in an exciting and rewarding business environment. However, we also felt that we should attempt to convey the interdisciplinary teamwork that is essential for success. To do this, we have invented a story that runs through the chapters and, hopefully, links them together in a way that shows how different specialists work together in a modern perfumery company. 

Nowadays, some natural oils are much less expensive because of automated farming methods. For instance, rows of lavender in a field can be cut almost to ground level and fed directly into a still pot carried on the tractor (Figure 3.13). The pot is then fitted under a field still and the oil extracted while the harvesting continues. The cost of lavender oil is thus tens, rather than thousands, of pounds per kg. Despite this, the modern perfumery industry would be unable to function as it does if it were to rely solely on natural ingredients. Cost alone would be prohibitive,... 

---