Hair-Bleaching Compositions

To formulate the hair lightener base of Table 4-1, add the amide, the sulfonate, and neodol to the water while stirring at room temperature. Add the oleic acid with stirring and then slowly add the alkalinity followed by the sodium sulfate. 

For the lotion developer of Table 4-2, dissolve the dodecyl benzene sulfonate and nonoxynol-9 in water. Heat to 60°C and add the melted cetyl and stearyl alcohols while stirring. Cool and add the phosphoric acid and the hydrogen peroxide. See Table 4-3 for an example of a booster powder. 

For permanent hair dyes where small shade changes to a lighter color are required, bleaching is also involved. For these systems of permanent dyes, extra peroxide is formulated into the creme developer for the necessary bleaching action. For formulas of this type, see the section of Chapter 6 that describes the formulation of permanent hair dyes. 

For the spray in hair lightener of Table 4-4, stir and dissolve the hydrox-yethyl cetyldimonium phosphate in water followed by the polysorbate-20. Add the quaternium-80, benzoic acid and disodium EDTA followed by the fragrance. 

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Ascorbic acid and derivatives are cited as potential ingredients in cosmetic formulations (876-879). Specific uses involve cosmetic compositions for thermal dispensing (880), dentifrice tablets (881), bath preparations (882), deodorants and mouthwashes (883-886), skin preparations such as skin lightening preparations (887) or protective creams (888-890). The more active areas have been hair and scalp preparations (891,892), hair setting compositions (893), hair bleaching programs (894, 895), and hair dyeing preparations (896, 897, 898). 

Viscoelastic bleaching and disinfecting compositions Hair care compositions... 

Because bleaching compositions are usually formulated between pH 9 and 11, the hydrolysis of peptide and amide bonds and the formation of lan-thionyl residues in hair are possible side reactions during bleaching. The hydrolysis of amide groups of the residues of aspartic and glutamic acids, in addition to the formation of cysteic acid residues, will increase the ratio of acidic to basic groups in the fibers (i.e., amide hydrolysis will decrease the isoelectric and isoionic points of the fibers). 

Hoeffkes, H. Bossmann, B. Use of coated alkali agents for oxidative hair bleaching and dyeing compositions to prevent foaming. Eur. Pat. Appl. EP 1752191, 2007 Chem. Abstr. 2007, 146, 212227. 

As a result of these large compositional differences, these two layers of the cuticle can be expected to react differently to permanent waves, bleaches, and even water and surfactants. Raper et al. [72] have described a method to determine the cuticle composition from endocuticle of chemically treated wools. Such a procedure would be valuable to evaluate changes in the endocuticle of cosmetically modified human hair. 

The objectives of this chapter are to describe bleach product compositions and their formulation and to review the chemistry of both chemical and photochemical bleaching (i.e., the oxidative degradation of hair pigments and the accompanying oxidative degradation of the proteins of human hair) and to describe the chemical nature of bleached hair. 

Said, H. M. Said, H. Composition for simultaneously lightening and coloring hair utilizing bleach-stable add and basic dyes. PCT Int. Appl. WO 2002074270, 2002 Chem. Abstr. 2002,137, 268123. 

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